Early explorations in New South Wales A collection-Richard Hind Cambage, John Price

0:00Journey into the interior of the country New South Wales by John Price. Appendix C of historical records of New South Wales, volume 3 Hunter, edited by FM Bladen. This is a Librivox recording, or Librivox recordings are in the public domain. For more information or to volunteer, please visit Librivox.org. The collection of the interior. Amongst the collection of papers known as the Bravern papers, originally in the possession of Sir Joseph Banks, a letter occurs from ex-governor Hunter to Sir Joseph Banks under date 29 July 1801, forwarding the journals kept by a young man who on two occasions have been sent with others to explore the country west of the mountain range. The following is the text of Hunter's letter. Number 17 Nottingham Place, 29 July, 1800 and 1.

1:01Dear Sir, I have searched for and found the account of the journeys which were made into the interior of New South Wales by my direction, and I have considered it better for enabling you to form your own judgement to send you the journals which I had directed by Bekepts and Mark Daly and the language of those who kept them. I wish I had been fortunate enough to have had officers in the colony who would have volunteered such excursion, but sorry I am to say that too many of them were employed in a way less to the advantage of the public service. Old as I am, I was then both able and willing to make such journey, but I was too much annoyed with various matters of less real importance than such journeys, and the information they might have afforded were. Yet had I continued for a year or two longer, I was determined to have attempted it at all risk. You will discover that the course or direction by compass is marked on the beginning of each day, and the miles travelled during the day at the end. Although we may suppose both to be a little incorrect, we are notwithstanding able to discover

2:06that they have been more than a hundred miles to the south-west or south-west by west, even if we deduct one quarter from the distance. Footnote, Hunter was right in this conjecture, it is almost impossible on any other supposition to follow their movements, end of footnote. Yours faithfully, etc. John Hunter, Sir J. Banks K.B. Apparently Sir Joseph Banks after perusing the journals returned them to Hunter, for attached to the above letter is the following memorandum in Hunter's handwriting. Seventeen Nottingham Place, 21st August, 1801. Captain Hunter presents his respectful compliments to Sir Joseph Banks and returns the journal which he meant Sir Joseph should keep. The only way by which the truth of the remarks it contains can be ascertained will be by an examination of one of the journalists who is now with Captain Hunter, and shall be sent as Sir Joseph at any time he will appoint. This young man went out with Captain H and Boy, and one of his servants.

3:11As he grew up in that country and became pleased with travelling through the woods, he solicited permission to go upon the excursion that intended, and as he could write he was instructed to enter in a paper the observations which their journey might suggest. He is an intelligent lad. Collins, Volume 2, pages 87 to 91, gives a compressed account of the first journey, but the exact words of one of the original travellers written according to Hunter at the time, and apparently on the spot, are deemed to have sufficient value to those who desire to trace the expansion of the settlement to warrant their publication. Journey into the interior of the country, New South Wales. January 24, 1798. Course South-South-West. Left Mount Hunter for about 12 miles till we fell in with the Nepean River, where the rocks run so steep it was with great difficulty we crossed them.

4:13The rest of the ground run very scrubby. We saw nothing strange except a few rock kangaroos with long black brush tails and two fessence which we could not get a shot at. Distance 18 miles. January 25, Course South-South-West. The country runs very open, good black soil. We saw a great many kangaroos and emus, and we fell in with a party of natives which gave a very good account of the place we were in search of, that there was a great deal of corn and potatoes, and that the people were very friendly. Footnote. In the handwriting of Governor Hunter. This good account which they say the natives gave them of the place they were in search of, a loose to a report which some artful villain in the colony had propagated amongst the Irish convicts lately arrived. That there was a colony of white people, and no very great distance in the backcountry, a hundred and fifty or two hundred miles, where there was abundance of every sort of provision

5:13without the necessity of so much labour. The ignorance of those Irishmen induced several to make an attempt to reach this paradise, and the consequence was that they perished in the woods, not being capable of finding their way back. This circumstance was fully related to me in a letter to the Duke of Portland, and a footnote. We harken to their advice, we altered our course according to their directions. One of them promised that he would take us to a party of natives which had been there, but he not coming according to his promise we proceeded on our journey as he had directed us. In the course of this day we found a great deal of salt, distance six miles. January 26th. Course west-south west. The ground run very rocky and brushy so that we could scarce pass. We crossed one small river, the banks of which were so rocky and steep that we could scarce pass it. We saw no signs of any natives about it, but we saw several sorts of dung of different

6:18animals, one of which Wilson called a Wombat, WHOM, B-A-T-T, which is an animal about twenty inches high, with short legs and a thick body forwards. With a large head round ears and very small eyes, he is very fat and has much the appearance of a badger. There is another animal which the natives call a colour wine, which much resembles the Stoths in America. Here I shot a bird about the size of a pheasant, but the tail of it very much resembles a peacock, with two large long feathers, which are white, orange and lead colour, and black at the ends. Its body be tweaked a brown and green, brown under his neck and black upon his head, black legs and very long claws. Distance sixteen miles. January 27th, course west-south west. The ground still runs very rocky and scrubby for about six miles. Then we came to a fine open country, but very mountainous.

7:21We crossed one small river where we saw plenty of coal and limestone, and the banks of the river on the other side runs very steep and a very high mountain. And within about two miles of the top runs very scrubby, intermixed with many vines, and particularly at the very top. And on the other side we saw a very fine meadow, flat country with many kangaroos and emuse. The timber runs very thick and short and scares ten trees on an acre. Distance sixteen miles. January 28th, course west-south west. The land runs much the same, the timber thin with a good many stringy bark trees, and a little further we saw a number of meadows and a hundred acres of land without a tree upon it. Here we saw a party of natives. Wilson run and caught one of them, her girl, thinking to learn something from them. But her language was so different from that one which we had with us that we could not understand her.

8:24We kept her all night, but she cried and fretted so much that the next morning we gave her a tomahawk and sent her to the rest of the natives, which were covered with large skins, which reached down to their heels. Here we came to the top of a fine hill in the middle of the day and took a view of the country. We saw nothing very promising. The land seemed open, few trees. We saw to the southward a few high mountains, but good land towards them. To the westward we saw a brook down the country, which we supposed to be a river which seemed to run northwest from southeast. The land seemed very high to the southward, but still an open country. It seemed to run towards 20 miles. January 29th, course west southwest. We steered our course for about four miles, but the country did not turn out to our expectation, for here we fell in with the heads of creeks, which seemed to run towards the river which we saw from the hill before mentioned.

9:27The ground run rocky and scrubby, and we saw falls of water in the heads of the creeks, run about 40 feet high, and two more about 20 feet high. Here we altered our course to the north for about 12 miles, thinking to cut off the heads of the creeks, but we fell in with more, so we came to the resolution of steering our former course west southwest, but finding the country to run rocky and scrubby. Here we saw another sort of timber. The leaves are lighter than a powder blue. The tree is low, much like an apple tree, the bark much like a mahogany. We hear saw in the creeks many fesents and rock kangaroos, likewise dung of animals as large as horse dung, but could not see any of them. We had nothing to eat for two days, but one rat about the size of a small kitten. I myself was very sick, and wished myself at home again. The other man was sick like me, for he had hurt his leg and was not able to walk.

10:28Wilson was well and hearty. Distance 24 miles. January 30th. Course west southwest. The country still rocky and scrubby. We fell in with the head of a river very near as large as the Hawkesbury River, which seemed to run down from northwest to southeast. Footnote. Collins Volume 2 page 90 states that this river appeared to run from southeast to northwest, and a footnote. The banks were so steep we could not get down them. The other side seemed open, but the banks very steep. Wilson proposed making a canoe, but the other man and myself were so faint and tired, having nothing to eat but two small birds each. We were afraid to venture on the other side of the river, for fear that we should not be able to procure anything to subsist on. Likewise our shoes was gone, and our feet were very much bruised with the rocks, so that we asked Wilson to return.

11:29Distance 16 miles. February 1st. Course southeast by east. About 7 miles walk we fell in with many meadows, with scarce any trees upon them for near 200 acres together. The hills also very thin of timber and very light. The ground good, except on the tops of the hills, which was stony. We were very weak, we could not get anything to eat but a few small birds. We fell in with two birds which Wilson said he had never seen before in the country, and we was fortunate enough to shoot the cock and hand in one of the meadows. They appear to be something like a cock or two, intermixed with a green white and lead colour, the cock with a scarlet head. Distance 20 miles. February 2nd. Course east northeast. The country still runs very fine, full of large meadows and some thousands of acres of land without any timber upon it, except here and there one tree, and some very large lakes

12:32of water some three miles long, but so no birds of any kind about them. This day we had a view from a high hill which made us better judges of the country, which was rocky and scrubby. It was clear and open land from south to south west. The land appeared high and good, and to the south west we saw two large ridges of mountains, with two heads with the appearance of the entrance of a river between them, which we supposed to be the sea coast. Here we found that the country which appeared low and dark was that which is rocky and scrubby, and that which appeared light and hilly is the most easy to travel in, being the forest. We saw to the northward and westward many hills of those which appeared rocky, but to all appearance more open to the northward. In the latter part of the day, after we had got over the first ridge of mountains, we fell in with a vast number of kangaroos. Here we were fortunate again, for Wilson killed one of them, which was a great refreshment

13:33to us. The next morning about sunrise, I myself heard two guns fire, which sounded to the south east. I was not certain that it was a gun until Wilson said, do you hear that gunfire? I said I did. I then took up my gun and fired again, but we could get no answer, although we fired five different times. We here come to a resolution of returning, for Wilson here came to a part of the country which he knew, and a very barren one, for we could not get anything to eat, but a few roots and grubs, and they very scarce. Indeed I thought that we must all have perished with hunger, which certainly would have been the case had it not been for the indefatigable zeal of Wilson to suppliers with as much as would support life. For we travelled six days, excessively over hills and valleys full of rocks, and no appearance of any animals or birds of any size, so that we had no hopes of ever reaching back again, being so weak that rowing myself was scarce able to travel.

14:36But on the sixth day we got through the rocks, and made the forestland about ten miles from prospect, which very much enlivened our spirits, for we were all but starved, and were obliged to cut up all our clothing to cover our feet, which was cut with the rocks. Enlivened as we were, it getting good ground to travel on, and being cheered up by Wilson, who said we should soon make prospect, we then proceeded on our journey with all the spirits and strength we were master of, and to our great joy we reached the desired place a little before sundown. 10. 16. 10. Journal of a Second Journey Friday, March 9, 1798, course south-south west. Left prospect hill and took the above course. Nothing particular transpired this day. We travelled till dark and stopped all night on the road. Distance 16.

15:3717. Saturday 10. Course south-south west. Continued our journey and made Neppian River about 9 o'clock, where we found a great fresh in the river, which took us best part of the day to get our things over. We left the river 4 o'clock, steered a little farther and stopped all night. Distance 4 miles. 17. Sunday 11. Course south-west by south. We steered the above course 12 miles, when we fell in with the cattle in a fine open country, having a pleasant sight of them. We counted 170, but was not able to make out how many calves. Wilson then altered his course to south by west, and walked about a mile and fell in with the Neppian River. But finding so much fresh in the river, it was impossible for us to get over our things that night. Distance 13 miles. 12.

16:38Course south-south west. Hacking and Wilson swam over the river with their clothes on the top of their heads to find the salt, and left me to take care of the provisions. Walked about five miles and fell in with the river again, and was obliged to swim over again, and then fell in with the salt. There is salt rocking great abundance, but it is entire mixed with a little sand. The vein of salt is about eight foot thick. We were determined to come down the west side of the river again to Collins. In walking about a mile north west, we fell in with another branch that came into the Neppian, where we found a much larger vein of salt. The vein was about twelve feet deep. The rocks of this river and the branch above mentioned is about a quarter of a mile per pondicular. We fell in with three more deep clefts, which having reason to believe they run a great way to the westward, it was about five o'clock when we came back to Collins.

17:39Tuesday 13th. Course south west. We had not walked above four or five miles before we fell in with a large creek that was impossible for anyone to get over with the load at their back. Wilson informed us that there was many more, so we concluded that it was of no use for us to go any farther to the south west, for we could not get much farther than where Wilson had been before, so we agreed to over all these dry creeks. Wilson and hacking went, they left me to take care of the provisions. Wilson went up the creek and hacking down and discovered a much finer vein of salt than he had seen before. Wilson saw nothing particular, but one short rock kangaroo. Came back to Collins and stopped all night. Wednesday 14th. West East. Having plenty of provisions, Wilson concluded to go to the eastward to see if he could get some skins of birds and animals. Collins went with him to keep him company, hacking leaving us to return to Sydney.

18:45Wilson asked me if I was willing to go to the south west part of the country for nine or ten days. I told him I was willing to go to any party thought proper. Then we altered our course and steered south west. We had a fine open country for seven or eight miles. We saw the dung of marks of the cattle-speeds all the way till we came to a rocky creek. Then we had a nasty scrubby stony country for the remainder of that day. We crossed three deep valleys with large ponds of water in each of the valleys. We also crossed one deep gully. Then we came two for the night. Distance 13 miles. First day 15th. Course south west. We continued our course with very bad travelling for the mountains was so steep we could scarcely pass. We crossed three deep gullies and one run of water where we stopped all that night. Distance 12 miles. Friday 16th.

19:46Course south west. Kept the same course, the travelling much the same as yesterday. Of the two this day is the worst. In the course of our journey Wilson saw some salts. Distance 10 miles. Saturday 17th. Course south west. Still the same course. We saw an exceeding high mountain. We agreed to go to it for Wilson told me that it was the highest mountain in all the country. In going to it we crossed a small river running through the mountains bearing north-north west to south-south east. The day being so far advanced we could not get up and down while daylight so we stopped under the hill till morning. The ground is covered with limestone and a kind of marble stone. We gathered some of them which we put in our bags. Distance 7 miles. Sunday 18th. We got at the top of this high mountain which I believed to be the largest hill in the

20:47country. Here we had an excellent view of the whole mountain. We took a view to the north and northwest which is nothing but exceeding high mountains on a rise one above another so that the clouds is lost. We likewise saw a river bearing north-north east and south-south west. Wilson told me that this river runs into tenses on nepian river for he was well acquainted with it. We saw that the river that we had crossed before came into it and discovered a brook which runs through the mountains. I supposed it to be a river so I asked Wilson if it was a river or not. He told me that he was certain that it is the river that runs clean through the mountains to the Horgsbury. The land of the northeast looks to be a level country for we could hardly discover Mount Hunter or spy other hill towards home but to the east we saw a scrubby rocky country full of deep gullies. So the south east much the same. We saw a large gap about south-south east.

21:49We suppose that there was a river which runs into the sea but to the south the country is very mountainous but fine green hills. Some of them are brushy and full of vines with good black soil. We likewise saw to the west and southwest that the country seems to be level and a good one. Then we came off the hill to refresh ourselves and to proceed on our journey. It was about two in the day when we left this hill. We named it Mount Wilson. After our refreshments we steered our course south-west and crossed some swampy meadows and two fine grass meadows with scarce a tree upon them. Came two for the night. Distance eight miles. Monday 19th. As soon as it was daylight we counted our biscuits and found that we had 30 a piece. We allotted that two biscuits should be our days allowance. We then started on our journey. We had not walked above four or five miles south-west course before we fell in with a large

22:51creek where was many more. Here altered our course to south to head the creeks. Walked about nine miles when we fell in with a fine run of water. Here we saw a great many ducks but did not like to waste our powder and shot about them. Wilson saw a large green yellow and black snake. We directly run and caught it by the head, which made us an excellent dinner. We saw an exceeding high hill about five miles from us. We concluded to go and see how the country seemed to look towards the south-west. The hill bore southeast by south from us. We walked about a mile when we came to a most beautiful country being nothing but fine large meadows with ponds of water in them, fine green hills but very thin of timber. We got to the top of this hill where we had the most delightful prospect of the country and in my opinion one of the finest in the known world. It certainly must be a pleasure to any man to view so finer country.

23:52We found by altering our course as we did that we had missed all the creeks that we met with when we was going on our south-west course. We likewise saw to the south-wood a most beautiful country, more particular to the southeast. This is not in my power to lay it down fine enough, to the east it is mountainous, but fine green hills to the northward. We saw the mountains and Mount Wilson, who we brought it to bear due north from us. We likewise saw to the westward and south-west a good level and low country. We perceived the river that Wilson and Price was at before and all the creeks that we met with run into the river. Being satisfied from our view off the hills we gave it the name of Mount Pleasant, leaving it to your excellency to name it as you think most proper. We fell in with the kangaroos but could not get a shot at them so we took our lodging for that night. Distance 18 miles.

24:52Juusd 20th, course southwest. We had a fine open metal country with fine green hills but the forest ground is not so good as I could wish it to be, for the soil is a ready yellow look and brushy. We have not seen a native since we left Sydney. We saw numbers of kangaroos but never was so fortunate as to get a shot at any of them. We fell in with some creeks, they all seemed to run to the river that Wilson was at before, came to for the night. Distance 22 miles. Distance 21st, course southwest. Continued our course for about two or three miles when we came into a scrubby barren stony country but good walking. Wilson shot a wood duck. The ground is still barren and scrubby during our day's journey. Distance 20 miles. First and twenty second, course southwest, the same course as yesterday.

25:56Yet with many creeks, seemed to run from the southeast down towards the westward. Wilson shot a fesent in one of the creeks. Here we had some rain, saw some high hills. We agreed to go to the top of the highest we could see but we were resolved to get farther to the south west if it was possible. We concluded to bring two for the night. Distance 11 miles. By day 23rd, course southwest. Came to the top of a high hill on purpose to see how the country looked towards the south west and found it to be a stony barren country. Saw some mountains about eleven miles from us. We came to them and got up one of them to satisfy ourselves with a view to get further into the country if a good one. We found to the south west that it was a scrubby, hilly country and nothing to be got, so we concluded to return back for fear that we should not have biscuits enough to bring us back.

26:56For if we could have got anything to eat, we should not have returned towards home yet a while, having had no signs of a kangaroo for three days. And we really believed that there never was a native in this part of the country. We saw from the mountain a river that seemed to run away to the westward, steered our course north to get to it. We found it to be about the size of the Neppian River with a great run of water, found that all the creeks that we met with before comes into it. So the southward it runs to an open country at a great distance. The tops of the hills looks to be very thin of timber. Here we had much rain, came too for the night. Distance 14 miles. Saturday 24th, course north east. We did not see any better way back. Wilson shot a rock kangaroo, so we saved a day's allowance of biscuits. Very dull and rainy weather. Stopped all night.

27:59Distance 16 miles. Sunday 25th, course north east, continued the same course, the ground as before. The timber is of a white gum and a short stringy bark. Will keeps raining, went to rest for the night. Distance 14 miles. Monday 26th, course north east. Weather very bad, we walked as fast as we could to get into a better country. During this day's journey, Wilson shot a strange bird. Long while before we could find a place to sleep in this night. Distance 24 miles. This day 27th, course north east. We had proceeded on for about one mile when we find open country. Wilson had the good fortune to shoot a kangaroo. By that means saved our biscuits, for we made a good dinner off him.

28:59We stared our course east southeast to see how that part of the country would turn out. We came to a fine open meadow country, but the skin of the fessant and the strange bird was spoiled, for we had so much rain that it was impossible for to have saved them. Here we had a great deal of thunder and lightning. Part of the tale of the fessant was saved by keeping it in bark of tree. Came to for the night. Distance 18 miles. Wednesday 28th, course east. The above course we had a most delightful country. Indeed I am not able to lay down the situation of it. We saw hundreds of kangaroos, one of them was shot by collins, which still preserves our biscuits. The weather very dull with frequent showers of rain. Came to for the night. Distance 21 miles. Thursday 29th, course east.

29:59We soon came to the top of a fine hill where we found that we had kept the outside of the country, but to the east and southeast is a scrubby, stony and rocky country. We found in coming to this hill that we had crossed the head of a river that seems to run to the southward. We altered our course north to come to the mountains. During our day's journey we saw some emus and many kangaroos, one of the latter Wilson's shot. The country is still very fine till we came to the mountains, stopped under them for the night. Distance 19 miles. Friday 30th, course north by east. In this course Wilson shot a fessant, the travelling much the same. As I have before mentioned in going over the mountains the first time, miles we could not guess at. Saturday 31st, course north by east. In this day's journey we were very fortunate for we came along the top of hill all the

31:01day. Sunday 1st, course north by east. We kept the above course in which Wilson shot another fessant, we cleared the mountains and came on the cow pastures. Monday 2nd, saw the cattle about four miles nearer than we saw them the first time, made the nepian and found a great fresh in it. Wilson saw numbers of ducks, some of which he shot, which made us an excellent supper. Having eaten to a piece. Cross the nepian and set off by moonlight on purpose to save the ducks and made prospect about four o'clock on Tuesday the 3rd. End of journey into the interior of the country new south Wales by John Price. Led by Phil Benson.

32:01Part 1 of exploration beyond the oppinepian in 1798 by R.H. Camvech. This is a Librivox recording. All Librivox recordings are in the public domain. For more information or to volunteer, please contact Librivox.org. Exploration beyond the oppinepian in 1798, read before the Royal Australian Historical Society, October 28, 1919, and reprinted from its journal and proceedings, Volume 6, Part 1, pages 1 to 36. This paper deals with two journeys made on foot by small parties sent out by the direction of Governor Hunter in 1798 under the following circumstances. A number of Irish prisoners have been led to believe, to use Hunter's own words, that there was a colony of white people at no very great distance in the backcountry, 150 or 200 miles, where there was an abundance of every sort of provision without the necessity

33:06of so much labour. They get difficult to convince them to the contrary. Hunter decided to allow them to select a few of their own number to make an attempt to reach this desirable land, and he sent with them from Paramata some soldiers and a guide named John, or James Wilson, a former prisoner who had later spent much of his time in the bush among the blacks, who had named him Bumbui. As soon as the party reached the foot of the mountains, probably somewhere between the Neppian and where Picton is now situated, the Irish prisoners decided to return, and they were brought back by the soldiers. Wilson, however, with two others, continued the journey. One of Wilson's party was a lad whose name was probably barracks, and whom Governor Hunter described in a letter to Sir Joseph Banks dated August 21st, 1800 and 1 as follows. This young man went out with Captain Hunter, a boy and one of his servants. As he grew up in that country and became pleased with travelling through the woods, he solicited

34:10permission to go upon the excursion then intended, and as he could write, he was instructed to enter in a paper the observations which their journey might suggest. He is an intelligent lad. In his diary, the lad refers to the third person as Roe. David Collins, formerly judge advocates and secretary of the colony, appears to have interviewed the lad after his return to England, a written account of this journey, and from the lad, Collins writes, the particulars were collected. Wilson and the lad also went to second journey, accompanied by a man named Collins. It is not known whether the notes were made throughout the day as the journey progressed, or whether they were written up each evening, possibly the latter, or perhaps even at greater intervals. It is clear however that after the party returned, a clean statement of both journeys was written out and handed to Governor Hunter, who later presented it to Sir Joseph Banks.

35:11This journal, written in a clear hand on double sheets of fullscap, roughly fastened together with a piece of red thread, is now in the Mitchell library. Although it has been supposed in a general way that the party reached the Wenger Karabi River, or the Wallandilly west of Mosfail, or even the Lackland in their first journey, no detailed account by an investigator has ever been given of the route taken in either journey, nor have their journeys been previously unraveled. Having given attention to this matter for a number of years, I have endeavored in the present paper to locate some of the landmarks referred to in the lad's record, along the route, and I'm satisfied that several of them have been identified with a high degree of certainty. The method adopted in interpreting the journal has been to give some reasonable weight to the direction quoted, to accept the distance in a straight line as being usually little more than half that quoted, and, from local knowledge and the ordinary laws of bushcraft, to pick out their track among the physical features referred to, such as hills and streams.

36:17The latter method has been regarded as the most important of the three. Apparently, at the time these journeys were made, due credence was not given to the veracity of the story, otherwise it would not have been necessary to rediscover the new country then found by this party. My investigation of the lad's journal satisfies me that he gave a true and faithful record of the expeditions, insofar as his knowledge enabled him, and some of his entries, though quaint and simple, are very expressive when the point of reference is understood. The journal January 24, 1798, course south-south west. Left-bound hunter for about twelve miles till we fell in with the Neppion River, where the rocks run so steep, it was with great difficulty we crossed them. The rest of the ground run, very scrubby. We saw nothing strange except a few rock kangaroos with long black brush-tails and two fesents which we could not get a shot at, distance 18 miles.

37:21Mount hunter is situated about five miles south-westally from Camden, and although they started off in a south-south west direction, the hills on their right, including the well-known razor-back range, gradually pushed them eastward, until by night they had reached and crossed the Neppion River, somewhere below the junction of Carriage Creek, between Douglas Park and Molden. Although they had travelled in a secure-tus direction for a stated distance of 18 miles, their direct distance from the starting point was about eight miles in a direction south by east. The rock kangaroos referred to, were, in my opinion, what we now know as rock wallabies, Petrogale penicillata, a few of which may be still found in the locality, while the fesents were liar birds, menura superba. Discover Salt. January 25th, course south-south west. The country runs very open, good black soil.

38:21We saw a great many kangaroos and emus, and we fell in with a party of natives which gave a very good account of the place we were in search of, that there was a great deal of corn and potatoes, and that the people were very friendly. We harkened to their advice. We altered our course according to their directions. One of them promised that he would take us to a party of natives which had been there, but he not coming according to his promise, we proceeded on our journey as he had directed us. In the course of this day we found a great deal of salt, distance six miles. This day they appeared to have spent considerable time discussing the position with the natives, who were as usual ready to reply in the affirmative to any leading questions asked them. The endrium regards of the discovery of salt as of interest and is dealt with in connection with the second journey. The party appeared to have travelled southerly, passing about three miles west of Wilton, and to the east of the Round Hill, until they again crossed to the left bank of the Neppion.

39:25The good black soil spoken of consists chiefly of the Wianna-Matter-Shale formation, and has long since been cleared and occupied as farms. January 26th, course west southwest. The ground run very rocky and brushy so that we could scarce pass. We crossed one small river, the banks of which were so rocky and steep that we could scarce pass it, distance sixteen miles. On this day references made to the presence of an animal which, quote, Wilton called a Wombat, W-H-O-M-B-A-T-T, Faskalomis-Michelli. Another animal which the natives call a colour wine, C-U-L-L-L-A-W-I-N-E, which much resembles the Stoaths in America. Probably the native bear, Faskal Arctus Scenarius, which was formerly common in the district, and a fesant. It seems likely the lad intended to call the American animals, Sloaths.

40:31It is difficult to follow their course on the 26th. Possibly the river mentioned as the Bargo, which would answer all the conditions if crossed near its tributary, Horn's Creek, to the east of Bucsland, where they would afterwards reach somewhere towards Balmoral, or it may have been Cal Creek, a tributary of the Nepion. The statement that there were Wombats near where the small river was crossed as of interest. For Mr. George Wilkinson of Bargo informs me that within his knowledge, Wombats were to be found up to about 30 years ago, both at Cal Creek on the east and near Horn's Creek and the Bargo River on the west of the Bargo district. To have crossed Cal Creek however, party would have had to travel about south instead of west-south west, though this is not a fatal objection, as the course set out in the journal was not always adhered to, and according to my interpretation of their journey, they did travel southerly on either the 26th or 27th. January 27th, course west-south west.

41:34The ground still runs very rocky and scrubby for about six miles. Then we came to a fine open country, but very mountainous. We crossed one small river where we saw plenty of coal and limestone, and the banks of the river on the other side runs very steep and a very high mountain, and within about two miles of the top runs very scrubby, intermixed with many vines, and particularly at the very top. And on the other side we saw a very fine meadow flat country, with many kangaroos and emus. The timber runs very thick and short and scares ten trees on an acre, distance sixteen miles. On this day they possibly travelled through portion of what is known as the Bargo brush, and the small river they crossed would perhaps be the head of the Bargo to the north-east of Colovale, but I and by no means clear about their movements on this and the previous day. According to Collins, the lad spoke of having seen black wattles, a casea decorense, on the

42:3727th. These trees are very common towards the southern end of Bargo, but occur around Mitigong also. They would have found it rocky and scrubby for the first four or five miles, after which, as the shell area is entered, the country becomes more open, but mountainous, and forest or Catherine Hill, some five or six miles north-east of the Liff from Mitigong, and which they probably crossed, reaches 2110 feet above sea level. From the summit of Forest Hill, under which the railway deviation from Pictent and Mitigong, which was opened on July 13th, 1919 now passes, there is an uninterrupted view over the lower country as far as the eye can reach towards Sydney, which is suggestive of the possibility that they may have regarded this as a very high mountain. Between Bargo and Forest Hill, Alpine, are the remains of two in still to be seen. Loptons in was on portion 65, parish of Bargo, on the eastern side of the main road, and

43:39was occupied from at least 1830 to the 60s, while portions of the walls of Kearins Inn are still standing. 1919, on portion 144, parish of Colour, on the western side of the road, and just on the eastern side of the railway line as recently deviated. The site of this Inn was surveyed by surveyor Robert Hoddle in 1829, and is the Inn mentioned in the New South Wales calendar for 1832 as having been commenced at the little forest. The entry that they saw, plenty of coal and limestone, has caused me a great deal of trouble. At the time this journey was made, limestone had not been discovered in Australia, and coal, a coal cliff, only the previous year. Nor has limestone since been found in the district under discussion, but as on the second journey they mistook cyanites, commonly called trackites for limestone, and a kind of marble stone, they were evidently mistaken in their identification of some rock they saw.

44:43The question of the coal however caused is greater concern, for these men had all come from England, and it must therefore be presumed, would have been able to recognise coal. Apart from my own local investigations, I have discussed this matter with Mr. J. E. Khan, government geologist, and Mr. L. F. Harper, geological surveyor, and I have a opinion that there is no outcrop of coal east of the railway line from Picton to Mittagong, accepting that towards the coast to Tiloara. It occurs however some miles to the westward of the railway line, but if the party had gone sufficiently far in that direction to meet with coal, the entries would have indicated much rougher country than their present notes imply, and their subsequent movements would not have accorded with the journal on the following day. There is a small outcrop of decomposed coal about one and a half miles north of Mittagong on the headwaters of the Natai River, but if this be accepted as the coal discovered by these explorers, it is impossible to harmonise the description of the country they afterwards

45:46passed over, with what they would actually have met with beyond this point. In places around Forest Hill, there are extremely dark bands of Vienna matter-sheil, similar to those seen near Douglas Park and Picton, and in the present state of our knowledge, it looks as if one of these may have been mistaken for an outcrop of inferior coal. On the other hand, if the various discoveries were not written up on the spot as they were made, they may not be recorded in their proper sequence, which would make it possible that their coal was just north of Mittagong, while the cyanite, trackite of the jib-jibralta, was mistaken for limestone, although barracks' rights of both the coal and limestone as having been discovered at the small river. In regards to the vines referred to, it may be mentioned that there are no jungle vines, such as are found on the coast, anywhere in the district, but small ones occur in various places. Nor is there any brush as generally understood. The bargo brush made famous in the old coaching,

46:48bullock-drey, and bush-ranging days, being simply a thick forest of eucalyptus trees, with a scrubby undergrowth growing in poor soil. Cassitha, Dada, vines, are to be found in the gullies at the head of the bargo, and these are always difficult for the pedestrians to negotiate. Smilax glycifilar, Suspirilla, also occurs there. The top of forest are Catherine Hill, which is composed of good shale soil, and over the summit of which, close to the trick station, the first road to Bong-Bong past, has been mostly cleared, but in places vines of climatis glycinoides, Hardenbergia monofila, and the straggling snakevine, Hiberty of Olublis, may still be seen. Also, a casea binovata, and pittus borum revolutum plants, which are somewhat rare in the district, and which indicate that the flora of this hill differed from that of the surrounding areas. Collins mentioned that on the 26th, the party met with a prickly kind of vine.

47:52This was probably Smilax Australis, a coastal vine which is growing around Mitagon, and Baurral, with you streffoslatifolius, and would be likely to occur in the Bargo district. The entry in regards to the mountain is somewhat ambiguous and reads, the banks of the river on the other side runs very steep and a very high mountain. Whether there was a gradual ascent from the bank of the river to the top of the mountain referred to, or whether from some point, perhaps forest hill, a high mountain could be seen is not quite clear. If the latter, then the high mountain would probably be the Mitagon range. If we accept forest hill as the summit referred to by the expression, and particularly at the very top, then the rest of the entry accords with what would be found on the other side of that hill. For a descent is made into Medovlat country, in which kangaroos and emus would have abounded in the early days, and in 1832 an inn had been built there known as the kangaroo or cutters inn.

48:54This Medovland is situated around the small district of Elmerton, a few miles east of it from Mitagon, and about a hundred years ago was known as Kananbagel, C-A-N-N-A-M-B-A-G-E-L, Plains. This name was recorded by Savae W. Harper on May 21st, 1821, when surveying in the locality. Commissioner of Enquiry, Big, in his report on New South Wales, refers to the spot as Kenem Bagels, K-E-N-E-M-B-E-G-A-I-L-S, Plains. Kananbagel was a native chief of considerable renown and would have been in the district when barracks and party passed there. He was referred to by Ensign Francis Boralier as Kananbagel, C-A-N-A-M-B-A-I-G-L-E on November 7th and 8th, 1802. When speaking of a native who joined his party between Menangel and Pikton during

49:55an expedition to try and cross the Blue Mountains, Boralier writes, the mountaineer called Bungin was an inhabitants of the south and had left the Kananbagel tribe because they wanted to kill him. Boralier says that Bungin were a cloak made of skins of animals. Governor King spoke of the chief as Kananbagel, C-A-N-N-A-B-Y-G-A-L, or Kananbagel, C-A-N-N-A-M-I-K-E-L. And mentioned that George Kaley, a botanist, had seen him when the sable chief was visiting the cow-pastion natives, about 18002. And King writes, Kaley describes Kananbagel and his tribe or family to be a stout athletic band, faster passing the other natives in height and stoutness. On March 9th, 1818, when in this locality on his expedition with Hamilton Hume, which culminated in their discovery of Lake Bathurst on April 3rd, 1818,

50:57Surveyor James Mean wrote, Tent at Mittagong at the south end of a plane of swampy meadowland. These flats were occupied in 1821, from May 21st of that year, Surveyor Harper refers to Chalka's hut on Portion 82, Parish of Mittagong. And in November 1830, Surveyor Robert Hoddle records the presence of cutters in on Portion 73 on the site now occupied by the boys' home number 8. Pass Mittagong January 28 Course west-south-west. The land runs much the same, the timber thin with a good many stringy bark trees, and a little further we saw a number of meadows and a hundred acres of land without a tree upon it. Here we saw a party of natives. Wilson run and caught one of them, a girl, thinking to learn something from them, but her language was so different from that one that we had with us that we could not understand her. We kept her all night, but she cried and fretted so

52:02much that the next morning we gave her a tomahawk and sent her to the rest of the natives, which were covered with large skins, which reached down to their heels. Here we came to the top of a fine hill in the middle of the day, and took a view of the country. We saw nothing very promising. The land seemed open, few trees. We saw to the southward, a few high mountains, but good land towards them. To the westward we saw a broke down the country, which we supposed to be a river, which seemed to run northwest from southeast. The land seemed very high to the southward, but still an open country, distance 20 miles. The party evidently travelled along the western side of Cannan Bagel Plains, and here stringy bark trees are still to be found. It will be noticed that the catching of the native, keeping her all night and releasing her next day, are all entered under the one date, thus showing an absence of accurate sequence. Colin speaks of the party capturing a native woman

53:08and child and rights. Wilson, understanding something of the language of these mountain natives, hoped to have gained some information of the country from this woman, but she could not comprehend him. From the entry in the journal, it would be supposed that the explorers had a native in their party, but from what Colin's rights it would seem that Wilson was the interpreter. From these meadowlands, the explorers appear to have travelled more on the course they were striving for. This, west-south-west, and they may have passed close to the present town of Mittagong, and possibly through the gap onto the hills west-delift and bow-rule to the north of Oxley's hill. They could also have reached the same spot by crossing the Mittagong range to the southeast of Gibraltar, the Jib. From one of these hills, they evidently saw something of the Wenger-Caribee River, to which they refer, though it is difficult to pick out the course of the river for many of the hills in the neighborhood, although a depression in the mountains is visible near its junction with the Wallandilly. The presence of this river seems to have decided

54:13them to keep to the right, so as to avoid the rough walking which their experience had already taught them would probably be their lot if they kept close to the banks. Their course during the afternoon probably took them past Moorlands, and on towards the head of Joajekriik, as will be understood from the entries made the following day. There seems some reason to suppose that Wilson had visited the rough portion of the Wenger-Caribee previously, and was therefore aware of its rugged nature, especially in view of an entry made on March 19th during their second journey, which is referred to later. Crosshead of Joajekriik, January 29th, course west-south west. We steered our course for about four miles, but the country did not turn out to our expectation, for here we fell in with the heads of creeks which seemed to run towards the river which we saw from the hill before mentioned. The ground run rocky and scrubby, and we saw falls of water in the heads of the creeks,

55:16one about forty feet high, and two more about twenty feet high. Here we altered our course to the north for about twelve miles, thinking to cut off the heads of the creeks, but we fell in with more. So we came to the resolution of steering our former course west-south west, finding the country to run rocky and scrubby. Here we saw another sort of timber, the leaves are lighter than a powder blue, the tree is low, much like an apple tree, the bark much like a mahogany. We hear saw in the creeks many pheasants and rock kangaroos, likewise dung of animals as large as horse dung, but could not see any of them. We had nothing to eat for two days, but one rat about the size of a small kitten. I myself was very sick and wished myself at home again. The other man was sick like me, preheared her to his leg and was not able to walk. Wilson was well and hearty. Distance twenty-four miles.

56:19In this day's entry there are two items of the greatest importance in assisting to identify the locality. Vis, the existence of waterfalls and the trees with leaves lighter than powder blue. We have also to remember that the party never crossed the river to which they refer. The creeks they met with and which caused them to turn northwards were evidently flowing to the southward and consisted of the upper branches of Joa'ja Creek, which flows in its lower portion through a deep, almost inaccessible chasm, once famous for its kerosene shell, into the Wenger Caribbean River. The waterfalls near Mitagong on the Nathai waters are in streams flowing to the northward. The first branch of Joa'ja Creek is met with just past the 10 mile post on the Mitagong Wombay and Cave's road. While vainly searching for waterfalls on this stream, I was advised to consult Mr. George Armfield, who directed me to waterfalls a few miles on, and situated in Wongandari Creek, a tributary of Joa'ja, and which crosses the road near the 15

57:25and a half mile post. This waterfall is about one and a quarter mile south of the road, and below Mr. Hugh Smith's residence, a measures 27 feet, including falls and cascades. But to the untrained eye, deceived by the great gorge into which the water descends, it might easily be regarded as being from 35 to 40 feet. Undoubtedly, this appears to be the waterfall near the head of the creek, which the explorer has found in 1798, and which was recorded as about 40 feet high. About a quarter of a mile above this fault is a smaller one, the cliff face being about 10 feet deep, though the water does not fall so far. On the next tributary, known as Basin Creek, and many small waterfalls, and probably one of these, as well as the smaller one on Wongandari Creek, may have been roughly estimated by the lad as being about 20 feet. The entry signifying that the party travelled to the north for 12 miles to avoid these rough creeks,

58:27may be understood to mean that they kept bearing to the north of west for many miles. After heading the Joa'ja tributaries and before reaching the spot where the Wong Bay and Caves Road now passes through a tunnel in the solid rock, the party again resumed approximately their former course, which would have taken them somewhere in the vicinity of Portianate, Parish of Boulio. We next come to the interesting observation in regard to another sort of timber, with powder blue leaves. Collins mentions that the blue referred to was that used in Washing. The tree in question can be no other than Eucalyptus scenario, often known as the Argyle Apple or Silver Leaf Apple, and the fact that these explorers noted it as a new species, especially on this day when they were so fatigued, is highly credible to them as close observers. The lad's simple description of this tree portrays it most accurately. In going from Sydney along the main southern road, this species is not met with until the 94

59:30mile post is passed, 10 miles south of Berema or just beyond the house known in the old coaching days as the Black Horse Hotel, but is common to us Maralan and Taurang. It also occurs around Mandama on the north side of the Winger-Caribbean River over the junction of Joa'ja Creek, but to the left or south of where the travellers passed. No waterfalls are encountered between Baurel or Mitagong and Mandama, except very small ones such as those on Cordo Creek. Having traced the explorers into this neighbourhood, passed the head of Joa'ja Creek, it became necessary for me to prove the presence of the Argyle Apple at this spot. To my first inquire is negative replies were furnished, but later through the kindness of Mr. Percy Cordo of Boulieu, undoubtedly specimens of this Eucalyptus were forwarded, having been found by Mr. William J. White on and between Portions 8 and 9, Parish of Boulieu. I shortly afterwards

1:00:32visited these trees and found that the locality was still the home of Wombats, although these nocturnal animals are also found around Joa'ja Creek. Rock Wallabizz had been abundant at this spot, though since destroyed, and Leia birds can be heard in the gullies every morning and evening. From all these combined circumstances, no doubt can be entertained as to the approximate location of these explorers on the evening of January 29, 1798. Reach Terminal Point of Journey. January 30, Course West Southwest. The country is still rocky and scrubby. We fell in with the head of a river very near as large as the Hawkesbury River, which seemed to run from north-west to south-east. The banks were so steep we could not get down them. The other side seemed open, but the banks very steep. Wilson proposed making a canoe, but the other man and myself were so faint and tired,

1:01:33having nothing to eat but two small birds each. We were afraid to venture on the other side of the river, for fear we should not be able to procure anything to subsist on. Likewise, our shoes was gone, and our feet were very much bruised with the rocks, so that we asked Wilson to return. Distance 16 miles. If the party had travelled a little over one mile south by west from any spot near Portian's 8 and 9, Parish of Bullio, they would have reached the high-right bank overlooking the Windja-Carabee, and would have seen that from this point onwards the river had a general westerly trend, though a little inclined to the south. The journal says the river in question seemed to run from north-west to south-east, but Collins quotes the direction as from south-east to north-west, and we may accept this as correct, for no river near this locality flows to the south-east. The course the explorers took from near Portian 9 was probably a westerly one,

1:02:35which at the end of five miles in a straight line, or a mile or two more as they walked, brought them onto the right bank of the Wallandilly River, overlooking its deep valley, a mile or so below its junction with the Windja-Carabee. They probably had a distant view of the meeting of these two streams, which prompted the remark that they fell in with the head of a river. The general course of the Wallandilly below this junction is north-western for seven or eight miles, or to the locality now officially known as Baralea, just below where the Wombay and Caves road crosses the river. The lad correctly describes the other side of the Wallandilly when he says it seems open, but the banks very steep. In fact, the height from the bed of the stream to the top of the steeply sloping hillside must be from 800 to 1000 feet, though in many places it is only thinly timbered. The geological formation in this locality is granite and porphyry, and this yields a less scrubby but more aggressive vegetation than the sandstone areas over which they have been

1:03:38travelling from the Nippian, and this feature is what called fourth the remark that the other side seemed open. If the party had descended to the stream, they would have found it possible to cross on foot at certain points, and that a canoe was unnecessary. The terminal point of this journey may therefore be regarded as being on the hillside overlooking the Wallandilly River and Bullyon. The explorers now decided to return, and it is likely they retraced their steps for several miles the same day, for hungry men would have no inducements to remain where they apparently were unable to get food. We now come to a very difficult portion of the journal to interpret, chiefly because the entry for January 31 is missing. There are four possible explanations. First, that the record was lost and in its absence overlooked. Second, that it was forgotten January 31 days. Third, that they rested. Fourth, that they retraced their steps over the same

1:04:40ground and had no interest to make. My view is that the last is the correct explanation, although we have evidence that in those early days mistakes were made in regards to the number of days in a month. Ensign Burelié, an educated man, when returning from his exploration beyond Boriga Rang, has an entry for November 31st, 1802. We can consider the position in the light of the following days record. The return journey. February 1st. Course, south-east by east. About seven miles walk we fell in with many meadows, with scarce any trees upon them for near 200 acres together. The hills also very thin of timber and very light. The ground good, except on the tops of the hills which was stony. We were very weak. We could not get anything to eat but a few small birds. We fell in with two birds, which Wilson said he had never seen before in the country,

1:05:43and he was fortunate enough to shoot the cock and hen in one of the meadows. They appeared to be something like a cock or two, intermixed with a green white and lead colour, the cock with a scarlet head. Distance 20 miles. There is no suggestion in the above entry that they were only commencing the return journey on February 1st, whereas when they turned back on the second journey, after quoting the course as the reverse of what they have been travelling, the entry reads, we did not see any better way back. If the party had left the Wallandillion February 1st and travels south-east by east for about seven miles or less from near Boulio, instead of reaching meadows they would have become entangled in the gorgeous of the Wengekara B River. It seems quite evident that they retraced their steps on January 31st and passed the Joajic Creek waters. Then on February 1st, after passing along near hurdle range, and bendouli, they reached the comparatively open country to the northeast

1:06:44of Berema, and this would seem like meadows compared with the class of country through which they had travelled. The new species of bird which they recorded was undoubtedly the Gang Gang, Kallosephalum Galeatum, which inhabits the locality to the present day. Discover the Bongbong District. The remainder of the journal until they return to prospect is all included under date February 2nd, but it is mentioned that they travelled six days successively. The first portion of the entry is as follows. February 2nd, course, east northeast. The country still runs very fine, full of large meadows and some thousands of acres of land, without any timber upon it, except here and there one tree, and some very large lakes of water some three miles long, but so are no birds of any kind about them. I have carefully investigated this entry, and I am satisfied it refers to the country around Bongbong between Boulio and Mosvel,

1:07:47and up towards the Winger Caribbean swamp. The latter figures may be exaggerated, but there are very large areas of swampy meadowlands with here and there one tree. The lakes referred to were large long ponds formed in the Winger Caribbean river, where the stream was blocked or dammed by swamps which impeded the flow. We have evidence that these ponds in sluggish streams were sometimes called lakes in the early days. For severe W. Harper refers to several lakes in the Medway Rivulet, one which he noted on May 30th, 1821, or 23 years after the explorers were in the district, being where the present road for Mosvel crosses the Rivulet at Sutton Forest. The matter is made clear however by Collins, who speaks of ponds of great length, having been discovered, and does not mention lakes. But large ponds existed in the Winger Caribbean river when it was discovered by this explorers in 1798, may justly be inferred by the entries of subsequent early recorders.

1:08:52Savaeer James Meahan, 20 years later, went about a couple of miles above the present Bongbong bridge, rotas follows. 10th March 1818, marked a gumtree on the edge of a large flat meadow without trees on, with a chain of deep ponds, through which I suppose forms the source of some of the branches of the Wara Gombi. On the following day when going downstream towards the bridge, Meahan wrote, the river falter the banks which are very low. When a few miles above the present bridge, on May 22nd, 1821, Meahan made the following note. The river lost in swamps and ponds. In the New South Wales calendar, 1832, page 95, is the following passage. The proposed township of Bongbong is situated on a remarkable bend of the flat, which forms the channel of the Winger Caribbean. But here the river, saving times of flood, has no decided bed or

1:09:52continuous current. In the course of time, a channel may be cut, which would, by confining the upper part of this river, afford a supply of running water, drain the swamp at the head and the soft lands about Bongbong. It may be of interest to mention that Meahan on March 10th, 1818, refers to a spot about two miles northeasterly from the present bridge as Tombong. The note being as follows. On the range which we passed, about 1pm, there is some good land, but appears to be mixed with stones. It is called Mittigong Range. Our present station is called Tombong. When writing two days later of a place about one and a half miles southeasterly from the bridge, his entry reads, the natives call this place Bumbong. Two years later, when at the latter locality, he wrote, Bumbong, Wednesday, 19th April, 1820. He would seem not unlikely that from these three slightly different names, the present name of Bongbong has been evolved.

1:10:57In writing of this district in 1818, Dr Charles Throsby refers to the Winger Karabi River as the Winger Karopa, W-I-N-G-E-C-A-R-R-U-P-P-E-R. On May 31st, 1828, Sevea Robert Dixon refers to Gibraltar Rock as Bauril, which is regarded as the native name. The name Moss Vail is of more recent dates and its derivation is known to many in the district as having originated in the following manner. When the railway reached the locality in the sixties, the name was required for the railway station, and as the only person living in this particular valley near the present spring street was an old man named Gemmy Moss, the valley of Vale was named after him. Mr NH Throsby informs me that Moss lived close to the spot now occupied by the residents of Mr. BH Pain. Distant view of Cookbundoon Range

1:11:59The entry of February 2nd precedes as follows. This day we had a view from a high hill, which made us better judges of the country, which was rocky and scrubby. To his clear and open land from south to south-west, the land appeared high and good, and to the south-west we saw two large ridges of mountains with two heads with the appearance of the entrance of a river between them, which we supposed to be the sea coast. We saw to the north wood and westward many hills of those which appeared rocky, but to all appearance more open to the northward. In the latter part of the day, after we had got over the first ridge of mountains, we fell in with a vast number of kangaroos. Here we were fortunate again for Wilson killed one of them, which was a great refreshment to us. The two headlands, the party sought at the south-west, which they supposed to be near the sea coast, are formed by a break in the Cookbundoon Range, through which the Cookbundoon River flows,

1:13:01and may be seen from several hills around Voril and Moss Vale. Governor McQuarry, when ascending the Mittergon Range from Bongbong on November 3rd, 1820, also noticed this headland appearance, and wrote that he gave the name of Barnard Ridge to a remarkable headland southeast, should have been southwest, RHC, others 36 miles, and which connects with Cookbundoon Range in honour of Mr Barnard of the colonial office. The two abrupt terminal points in the Cookbundoon Range, standing above the lower country adjacent, certainly appear like headlands in a distant view from the northeast. But on a closer approach, or when viewed from other directions, the appearance changes. Turn towards home. References next made in the journal to the fact that Wilson and the lad thought they heard two guns fire, and the subsequent entry reads, we here came to a resolution of returning. For Wilson here came to a part of the country which he

1:14:06knew, and a very barren one, for we could not get anything to eat but to few roots and grubs, and they very scarce. Indeed, I thought that we must all have perished of hunger, which certainly would have been the case, had it not have been for the indefategable zeal of Wilson, to suppliers with as much as would support life. For we travelled six days successively over hills and valleys full of rocks, and no appearance of any animals or birds of any size, so that we had no hopes of ever reaching back again, being so weak that rowing myself was scarce able to travel. But on the sixth day we got through the rocks, and made the forest land about 10 miles from prospect, which very much enlivened our spirits, for we were all but starved, and were obliged to cut up all our clothing to cover our feet, which was cut with the rocks. Enlivened as we were, getting good ground to travel on, and being cheered up by Wilson, who said we should soon make prospect, we then proceeded on our journey with all the spirit and

1:15:11strength we were master of, and to our great joy we reached the desired place a little before sundown. Distance sixteen miles. The remark that Wilson here came to a part of the country which seems to indicate that he may also have previously visited the Bongbong district. For Barrington, Quote's Wilson, as reporting in 1797, that to the northwest of the head of the Hawkesbury, he came upon a very extensive tract of open and well-wattered country, where he had seen a bird of the pheasant species, an accord-repeat which he said was larger than a dog. In their return from the upper portion of the Wengekara-B river, the explorers appeared to have travelled somewhere between or near the Nephien and Aven rivers, which in parts is exceedingly rough country. If my interpretation of the Lads' journal is correct, then Hamilton Hume was a baby in arms when the Bongbong district was discovered, though it was left to him and his brother to rediscover it in

1:16:121814 or 16 years later. The fact that these earlier explorers had previously visited the locality does not detract from the merits of Hume's discovery. The following information concerning the chief guide Wilson is recorded by Collins. Certain particulars concerning the natives were obtained through the means of one Wilson, a wild idol young man, who, his term of transportation being expired, preferred living among the natives in the vicinity of the river, Hawkesbury, R.H.C., to earning the wages upon his industry by working for settlers. Wilson had made the natives believe that he was formerly a black fellow and had induced one very old gin to admit being his mother. In order to employ Wilson in some useful manner, deputies of A. Grimes took him to Port Stevens, and while there, one of the local natives enticed Grimes into the wood, Hoys de Speer was on the point of throwing it when he was prevented by

1:17:15Young Wilson, who, having followed Mr. Grimes with a double-barreled gun, levelled at the native and fired it. He was supposed to be wounded, free-fell, but rising again he made a second attempt to throw the spear and was again prevented by Wilson. The effect of the second shot was supposed to be conclusive as he was not seen to rise any more. Mr. Grimes got back his boat without further interruption. Under date August 1795, Collins writes, Wilson, or as the natives, termed him Bumbley, immediately after his return from Port Stevens with the deputies of A.R., went off to the natives at the river. Under date August 1800, or about two and a half years after the exploration to the Upper Wallandilly, Collins writes, information had been received of the death of a convict of the name of Wilson several times mentioned in the preceding narrative, and who was better known by that given him by the natives of Bumbley.

1:18:18It appears that Wilson had taken a black girl as his wife against her will, with the result her friends found opportunity to spear him at a time when he was unable to defend himself. In order to do honour to the youth to whom we are indebted for the record of the first two important journeys towards the interior, and whom Governor Hunter refers to as an intelligent lad, I would suggest that if his name should be definitely established as barracks, the waterfall on Wanganderry Creek be named barracks falls to perpetuate the memory of one of Australia's earliest courageous explorers. End of Part 1 Part 2 of exploration beyond the Oppenepian in 1798 by R.H. Canvage This is a Librivox recording, all Librivox recordings are in the public domain.

1:19:21For more information or to volunteer, please contact Librivox.org. The Second Journey Owing to the reported discovery of salt by the party on their first journey, Governor Hunter decided to send Henry Hacking, a quartermaster of the Sirius to investigate its importance. He was accompanied by Wilson, the lad, barracks, and a man named Collins. The party left prospect on Friday, March 9, 1798 and travelled towards the Neppion, 16 miles. A journal was again kept. Saturday 10th, course south-south west, continued our journey and made Neppion river about 9 o'clock, where we found a great fresh in the river which took us best part of the day to get our things over. We left the river 4 o'clock, steered a little farther and stopped all night. Distance 4 miles Sunday 11th, course south-west by south. We steered the above course 12 miles,

1:20:29when we fell in with the cattle in a fine open country, having a pleasant sight of them. We counted 170, but was not able to make out how many calves. Footnote, these cattle were the offspring of four cows, two bulls and one heifer calf, which strayed from Sydney in May 1788, and were not found on November 1795. In 1800 and two, had increased to a few hundred, being apparently confined to the valley of the Neppion, which in consequence became known as the Cow Passengers. Wilson then altered his course to south-by-west, and walked about a mile and fell in with the Neppion river, but finding so much fresh in the river, it was impossible for us to get our things over that night. Distance 13 miles They again appeared to have reached a spot below the junction of Carriage Creek with the Neppion. Visit the salt Monday 12th, course south-south west,

1:21:31Hacking and Wilson swam over the river with their clothes on top of their heads to find the salt, and left me to take care of the provisions, walked about five miles and fell in with the river again, and was obliged to swim over again, and then fell in with the salt. There is salt rocking great abundance, but it is entire mixed with a little sand. The vein of salt is about eight-foot thick. We were determined to come down the west side of the river again to Collins. In walking about a mile north-west, we fell in with another branch that came into the Neppion, where we found a much larger vein of salt. The vein was about 12 feet deep. The rocks of this river and the branch above mentioned is about a quarter of a mile per pondicular. We fell in with three more deep clefts, which having reason to believe they ran a great way to the westward, it was about five o'clock when we came back to Collins. From the above entry,

1:22:32the lad leaves as in doubt as to whether he stayed looking after the provisions all day, or handed that duty over to Collins. But in any case, he describes the movement of the main party. After carefully considering the journal in connection with local features, I concluded that they had discovered the salt and mile or so above, and also at the junction of the Bargo and Neppion rivers, and, with the object of testing that assumption, left Sydney with Mr. J. E. Khan, government geologist for the locality on January 25, 1918, are exactly 120 years from the very day of the original discovery. We proceeded to the spot from Picton, crossing the Bargo river at Rockford, and on reaching the junction, immediately fell in with the salt. The two rivers are here flowing through gorgeous of perhaps 300 to 400 feet deep, with almost perpendicular sides. The rock formation is Hawkes-Bressandstone, Triassic, and being regarded as a vestorine origin,

1:23:36it is not considered remarkable that it should contain a small percentage of salt. During and after wet seasons, the salt is leached out of the rocks in solution, and when it reaches the exposed face of the cliffs, is soon washed away. But in small caves and sheltered positions under the cliffs, the moisture is protected on reaching the face, and here the salt is precipitated as the moisture is dried up, and occurs as an efflorescence film on the sides and floor of the caves, and in some cases forms a thin selvage protruding perhaps half an inch. Gradually from the weight of accumulation and the action of wind, the salt falls from the side to the floor of the cavern, and in the language of the intelligent becomes entire mixed with a little sand, which later finds its way down the face of the cliff and is washed away. An analysis of a sample of the mixture gave 48% of sodium chloride or common salt.

1:24:37These salt caverns, many of which were noticed along the cliffs of both rivers, would be valuable as salt licks if they were accessible to stock, but the solid rock itself apparently contains so small a percentage of salt that it will be of no value as rock salt. The rock in these caverns is wider than that in exposed situations, and no doubt this caused the explorers to think that most of the mass within the caves was salt. Hacking's report on the deposit does not appear to have been published, but Governor Hunter sent a sample of salt, presumably from this locality to Sir Joseph Banks, as did Governor King also, at a later date. In 1889, Professor T. W. Edward David, F. R. S., reported on and described an exactly similar occurrence of salt at Ilalong near Mateland, and verbal reports of smaller currencies have been made by others. The identification of the locality where the salt was found helps us to fix

1:25:39the position of the explorers on January 25th 1798 during their first journey. The three more deep clefts, which the explorers saw coming into the left bank of the Neppian river below its junction with the Bargo, were those formed by Mertle, Stonequery, and Carriage Creek respectively. Mertle Creek takes its name from the presence of many small trees of backhousier Mertifolia along its banks. Tuesday 13th, Cores, Southwest. We had not walked above four or five miles before we fell in with a large creek that was impossible for anyone to get over with a load at their back. Wilson informed us that there was many more, so we concluded that it was of no use for us to go any farther to the Southwest, for we could not get much further than where Wilson had been before. So we agreed to over all these dry creeks. Wilson and Hacking went,

1:26:40they left me to take care of the provisions. Wilson went up the creek and hacking down, and discovered a much finer vein of salt than he had seen before. Wilson saw nothing particular, but one short rock kangaroo came back to Collins and stopped all night. The large creek referred to was probably Stonequery Creek, which flows through Picton, and although there is no record of the fact, it is not unlikely the party then so named it. For Governor King, when writing to Sir Joseph Banks on November 2nd, 1805, refers to George Kaley's visit to the locality in 1802, when the latter called the stream Poppy Brook. And King says, others who have gone there before him call it Stonequery Creek. The name appears to antidate any period when a quarry was in existence there, and was probably suggested through the presence of masses of broken rock in the gorge. It is probable that in going up the creek, Wilson found it was crossable near where the railway line

1:27:44now crosses it at Picton, and this knowledge no doubt influenced their movements on the following day. Mineralized waters long been known in Stonequery Creek, about a quarter mile above Moldon, but this is caused by the presence of lime in the shell overlying the sandstone. The lime is brought to long in solution in the water, and precipitated as incrustations on the face of a small cliff, and this secondary limestone or travertine was burned for lime in the early days. On the lower portion of Stonequery Creek, a several cavities in the cliffs, similar to those containing the salt near the Bargo River, and evidently one of these was that referred to by hacking. Discover Picton Lakes Wednesday 14th, Course East Having plenty of provisions, Wilson concluded to go to the eastward to see if he could get some skins of birds and animals. Collins went with him to keep him company, hacking, leaving us to

1:28:46return to Sydney. Wilson asked me if I was willing to go to the south-west part of the country for nine or ten days. I told him I was willing to go to any party thought proper. Then we altered our course and steered south-west. We had a fine open country for seven or eight miles. We saw the dung of marks of the cattle-sfeet all the way, so we came to a rocky creek. Then we had a nasty scrubby stony country for the remainder of that day. We crossed three deep valleys with large ponds of water in each of the valleys. We also crossed one deep gully. We then came two for the night. Distance 13 miles Their movements in the early parts of this day cannot be definitely followed, but after they headed the rough apportion of Stonequery Creek, their journey probably took them past what is now the town of Picton, after which they soon passed out of the more open, shale country, and entered the scrubby hogs-brie sandstone. And the large ponds of water referred to,

1:29:51a doubtless Picton lakes, which they must therefore be credited with having discovered. In a wet season, these sheets of water are considerable, but ordinarily they can only be regarded as very large ponds, in places upwards of 10 or 15 feet deep. Almost filled with very tall reads, Caladium Articulatum, and a somewhat similar plant with bladey stems, Leopardus sperm exaltatum, while floating on the surface of the water, at the peltate leaves of a water lily, Bracenia perporea. Thursday 15th, Course Southwest. We continued our course with very bad traveling, for the mountains were so steep we could scarcely pass. We crossed three deep gullies and one run of water, where we stopped all at night. Distance 12 miles. Friday 16th, Course Southwest. Kept the same course, the traveling much the same as yesterday, of the two days this days is the

1:30:56worse, in the course of our journey Wilson saw some salt. Distance 10 miles. On the 15th and 16th, the travelers appear to have kept a fairly regular course to the west of, and approximately parallel to the present railway line from Picton Lakes to Mittagong, probably camping the first night on the upper portion of the little river. The water along this route runs into the Natai river, and some of the gorgeous below are to the north west of their track and known to be almost uncrossable. Reach Mount Gelor. Saturday 17th, Course Southwest. Still the same course. We saw an exceeding high mountain. We agreed to go to it, for Wilson told me that it was the highest mountain in all the country. In going to it we crossed a small river running through the mountains, bearing north-northwest to south-south east. The day being so far advanced, we could not get up and down while daylight, so we stopped under

1:32:01the hill till morning. The ground is covered with limestone and a kind of a marble stone. We gathered some of them, which we put in our bags. Distance 7 miles. I venture the opinion with full confidence that the mountain referred to is Mount Gelor, the summit of which is 2732 feet above sea level, or 98 feet lower than Gibraltar, which is 2830 feet. The small river they crossed just before reaching the mountain is the Natai, which follows approximately from south-south east to north-northwest, and out of the valley of which Gelor rises as a conspicuous beautiful cone capped with cyanite, popularly called Trackite, which the party apparently mistook for limestone and marble. On March 10, 1818, Sevea James Meahan refers to this mount as Gelorra, while on Sir Thomas Mitchell's map of the southern roads in about 1830, it is given as Gelorra,

1:33:04J-I-L-O-R-O, though Mitchell later calls it Gelor, J-E-L-L-O-R-E. The original is evidently a native name. The fact that Wilson told the lad that this was the highest mountain in all the country points to the assumption that Wilson had previously visited the locality. In Field Book 317, there is a sketch by Sevea Robert Dixon dated May 31, 1828, of the mountains to the northwest, taken from Gibraltar, and Mount Gelor is shown with a cylindrical tower on its summit. This tower was built of stones no doubt under the direction of Sir Thomas Mitchell, in connection with the Trigonometrical Survey of the Colony, and the base of it may still be seen, encircling the present care of stones, denoting the more modern trick station. Ascend Mount Gelor Sunday 18th, we got at the top of this high mountain, which I believe to be the largest hill in the

1:34:05country. Here we had an excellent view of the whole mountain. We took a view to the north and northwest, which is nothing but exceeding high mountains on a rise, one above another, so that the clouds is lost. We likewise saw a river bearing north-northeast and south-southwest. Wilson told me that this river runs into tenses, or nepian river, for he was well acquainted with it. We saw that the river we had crossed before came into it, and discovered a brook which runs through the mountains. I supposed it to be a river, so I asked Wilson if it was a river or not. He told me that he was certain that it is the river that runs clean through the mountains to the Hawkesbury. The land to the north-east looks to be a level country, for we could hardly discover Mount Hunter or any other hill towards home, but to the east we saw a scrubby rocky country full of deep colours, to the south-east much the same. We saw a large gap about south-south-east.

1:35:07We suppose that there was a river which runs into the sea, but to the south the country is very mountainous, but fine green hills. Some of them are brushy and full of vines with good black soil. We likewise saw to the west and southwest that the country seems to be level and a good one, then we came off the hill to refresh ourselves and to proceed on our journey. It was about two in the day when we left this hill. We named it Mount Wilson. After our refreshment we steered our course south-west and crossed some swampy meadows and two fine grass meadows with scarcer tree upon them, came two for the night. Distance eight miles. The view from the summit of Gelore to the north and northwest includes a sweep right round from Springwood past Mount Victoria and the mountains around Genolene caves to Mount Warrong and includes in the foreground the hills of the Borragarang Valley. This panorama is beautifully

1:36:07shown by a sketch from Sir Thomas L Mitchell's field book reproduced as an engraving in Mitchell's eastern Australia, volume two. The stream referred to as a river which flows north-north-east and joins the Natai after passing through Portia-Nate-I, Parish of Wanganderi, is locally called Wanganderi as it rises in a high hill of that name but is different from the creek of the same name flowing in the opposite direction into Joadja Creek a few miles to the southward, or from that also of the same name which flows into the Wallandilly. And I was suggest that it might fittingly be named Wilson's creek in memory of one of the first explorers to reach the locality. The United Waters referred to flow northily as the Natai, the lower portion of which was reached by N San Francisco in 1802 near the junction with the Wallandilly. It seems clear that Wilson had a knowledge of the Natai river in the Borragarang district but this could have been obtained by

1:37:08visiting the island overlooking the river to the westward of the cow pastures. The Wallandilly is not visible from gelore, being hidden by the intervening range to the northwest. The summit of the country to the northeast across the Natai presents a level appearance as mentioned in the journal, and in this direction the light at south-head is visible. The country to the east is faithfully described by the lad, while the large gap which they saw to the south-south east is plainly visible and is the gap near Gibraltar, through which the road from Mittagong to Baurail passes. They probably camped at night on the north side of the Wombay and Caves Road, where there are several areas of swampy Meadowland. Proceed to Gingermullen. Monday 19th. As soon as it was daylight we counted our biscuits and found we have 30 a piece. We allotted that two biscuits should be our days allowance. We then started on our journey. We had not walked above four or five miles south-west course before we fell in with

1:38:14a large creek where was many more. Here altered our course to south to head the creeks, walked about nine miles when we fell in with a fine run of water. Here we saw a great many ducks, but did not like to waste our powder and shot about them. Wilson saw a large green yellow and black snake. He directly run and caught it by the head, which made us an excellent dinner. We saw an exceeding high hill about five miles from us. We concluded to go and see how the country seemed to look towards the south-west. This hill bore south-east by south from us. We walked about a mile when we came into a most beautiful country, being nothing but fine large meadows with ponds of water in them, fine green hills, but very thin of timber. We got to the top of this hill where we had a most delightful prospect of the country, and in my opinion one of the finest in the known world. It certainly must be a pleasure to

1:39:15any man to view so finer country. We found by altering our courses we did that we had missed all the creeks that we met with when we were going our south-west course. We likewise sawed to the south-west a most beautiful country, more particular to the south-east. It is not in my power to lay it down fine enough. To the east it is mountainous, but fine green hills to the north-wood. We saw the mountains and Mount Wilson, for we brought it to bed due north from us. We likewise saw to the westward and south-west a good level and low country. We perceived the river that Wilson and Price was at before, and all the creeks that we met with run into this river. Being satisfied from our view from off the hills, we gave it the name of Mount Pleasant, leaving it to your excellence it to name it as you think most proper. We fell in with the kangaroos, but could not get a shot at them, so we took our lodging for that night.

1:40:16Distance 18 miles The expression that night in the last line of the above entry implies that the journal was not always written up the same day that the particular journey referred to was made. The course taken on the 19th led them towards where in the early 30s the village of Berema was established when the main road to Gulburn, which had previously gone over the Mitagong range and through Bong Bong, was deviated near Forest or Katharine Hill and passed through Natai, now Mitagong. The fine run of water referred to was the Wenzhen Karabi River near Berema, but before reaching this, they would have seen the exceeding high hill known as Jingen Bullen, 2624 feet, which they ascended and named Mount Pleasant. Gelor, which the party named Mount Wilson, bears nearly due north, and is just visible from the summit of Jingen Bullen. The river which they perceived and

1:41:17into which all the creeks ran, with which they met, was the Wenzhen Karabi below Berema. Near the lower portion of this river, just below its junction with the Wallandilly, was the terminal point of their first journey. But the introduction of the name of price is difficult to understand. The explanation may be that Wilson, an man named Price, visited the Wenzhen Karabi in their wanderings before the two official expeditions were undertaken. The lads' abirations for the beautiful country seen from this hill, and which is so simply yet so enthusiastically described, was fully justified. To the eastward as the Throsby Park estate, originally the property of Dr Charles Throsby, who in about 1817 started the settlement in the Bongbong district, and whose nephew Charles Throsby was the ancestor of the present day Throsby families. So the southeast is the Sutton Forest District, so named by Governor McQuarry on November 2nd, 1820,

1:42:19when returning from his visit to Lake George, which had been discovered by Joseph Wilde of Bongbong, under the direction of Dr Charles Throsby on August 19th, 1820. The name of Sutton Forest originally applied to the whole of the forestland around the locality, and was given in honour of the right honorable Charles Manners Sutton, then speaker of the House of Commons. In all directions around Gingermullen, beautiful farm and grazing lands may now be seen, many of which were surveyed in 1821, while the eastern slope of the hill itself is noted for his very fine residences. Travel towards Marolan. Choose the 20th, course southwest. We had a fine open meadow country with fine green hills, but the forest ground is not so good as I could wish it to be, for the soil is a ready yellow look and brushy. We have not seen a native since we left Sydney. We saw numbers of

1:43:20kangaroos, but never was so fortunate as to get a shot at any of them. We fell in with some creeks. They all seemed to run to the river that Wilson was at before. Came too for the night. Distance 22 miles This entry contains an item of geological import. Their course would take them across a tributary of the Winging Caribbean, called the Medway Rivulet, where they had probably camped the previous night, and passed the spot since known as the Crossroads. A mile or two beyond this, they would leave the fine green hills and enter a more scrubby country, containing a large amount of pysyllitic ironstone on many of the hills. This ironstone in parts of pale reddish colour to the soil, even at some distance from these red ironstone summits, and the land in general is decidedly inferior to that of the open country to the north-east. Hence the latter remark that it had a ready yellow look, and was not so good as he could wish it to be.

1:44:24Wensley 21st, Course Southwest continued our course for about two or three miles when we came into a scrubby barren stony country, but with good walking. Wilson shot a wood duck. The ground is still barren and scrubby during our day's journey. Distance 20 miles The presence of a wood duck suggests that they were in the vicinity of water, and it seems likely that on this day they crossed Paddy's River, a stream originally named Patrick's River by Savae Amihan, from the fact that he was on his banks on St Patrick's Day, March 17, 1818. On November 1st, 1820, Governor McCwory referred to this stream as St Patrick's River, and mentions that on this day he named the open country west of the Wallandilly, Eden Forest, now known as Arthur's Lee, in honour of Lord Auckland, George Eden.

1:45:25Thursday 22nd, Course Southwest, the same course as yesterday. Met with many creeks, seemed to run from the southeast down towards the westward. Wilson shot a fesent in one of the creeks. Here we had some rain, saw some high hills. We agreed to go to the top of the highest we could see, for we were resolved to get farther to the southwest if it was possible. We concluded to bring two for the night. Distance 11 miles. According to these records it would seem the explorers were continuing a course approximating that now followed by the main southern road, and by the night of March 22nd, they should have been somewhere to the westward or southwestered of Marolan, and there are no serious obstructions between that locality in Jinjian Bulland, to have prevented them from having kept a fairly direct course. Ascend Mount Taorang, Friday 23rd, Course Southwest,

1:46:28came to the top of a high hill on purpose to see how the country looked towards the southwest, and found it to be a stony barren country. Soar some mountains about 11 miles from us. We came to them and got up one of them to satisfy ourselves with a view to get further into the country if a good one. We found to the southwest that it was a scrubby, hilly country, and nothing to be got, so we concluded to return back for fear that we should not have biscuits enough to bring us back. For if we could have got anything to eat, we should not have returned to our home yet a while, having had no signs of a kangaroo for three days, and we really believed that there never was a native in this part of the country. We saw from the mountain a river that seemed to run away to the westward, steered our course north to get to it. We found it to be about the size of the Neppian river, with a great run of water, found that all the creeks that we met with before comes into it, to the southward it runs to an open country at a great distance.

1:47:33The tops of the hills looks to be very thin of timber. Here we had much rain, came too for the night. Distance 14 miles. The above entry is the last made on the outward journey, and if carefully studied in relation to local features, it enables us to arrive at a fairly definite conclusion in regard to the terminal point reached by these explorers. According to their figures, the total distance travelled this day was 14 miles, and of this they assumed they went eleven or probably twelve before reaching the summit of the high hill from where they saw a large river to the north, that's an estimated distance thereof, of about two miles away. As they had crossed no large river in this portion of their journey, and as the creeks which they had met with during the few preceding days ran towards the west into this new stream, it becomes clear that the river, about the size of the nepian which they had now discovered,

1:48:33was the upper Wallandilly. The following expression is used in the journal, so the southward it runs to an open country at a great distance. At first this remark might be thought to apply to the river, but that is not so. The lads usual method when describing the country is to speak of the particular part as it. We have therefore to locate a high hill about two miles south of the Wallandilly, with scrubby hilly country to the south west, and from the summit of this high hill, a glimpse of distant open country may be seen to the southward. The hill which answers these conditions is Mount Taorang, 2,849 feet above sea level, and situated south of the main southern road, at about six miles in the direct line east by north from Gulburn. The Wallandilly is just under two miles in a straight line north of Mount Taorang, while governor's hill is about four miles west of it. And from the latter, scrubby hilly extends southerly, and intercept the view from Taorang to

1:49:38the Gulburn plains. The view to the south west is therefore faithfully recorded by the lad. So the southward it runs to an open country at a great distance, for in a southerly direction from the summit of Mount Taorang, the southern end of the Gulburn plains on the eastern margin of Lake Bathurst, may be clearly seen at a distance of 20 miles away in a straight line. In going from Sydney, Mount Taorang is the first hill met with on this side of the Wallandilly, from which any portion of the Gulburn plains can be seen. The plains near Lake Bathurst are also visible from Cookburn Dune, 2,973 feet. But before this mountain is reached, the Wallandilly must be crossed, and the journal clearly shows that the river was discovered from the mountain the party ascended. The entry in regards to the hill tops looking to be very thin of timber may have been largely suggested by the appearance of a base-old covered, almost treeless eminence about four miles north

1:50:39east of Mount Taorang, and known as Nataray or Ball hill, 2,514 feet. It is evident that in the early days this hill arrested attention, for Sir Thomas L. Mitchell, when writing in 1836 of the Sinites and Trapbrock basalt hills around that district, said, of the latter. Nataray, a small hill north east of Taorang and distant about four miles from it, is perhaps the most remarkable. The party would also have been able to see the high basaltic land beyond Bungonia to the south east, now known as Invereri Park, and formerly owned by David Reed. Although now cleared, it was always sparsely timbered. It is difficult to explain why the journal states that the new river seemed to run to the west. It is quite conceivable that a party on Mount Taorang, seeing for the first time the valley which extends east and west from near the present village of Taorang to Kenmore near

1:51:40North Goldburn, would be likely to suppose the stream contained therein, flowed westally, especially as they had not crossed any eastern extension of it when traveling from Jinjim Bullen. It may be noticed that in the journal a doubt is implied as to the course of the river, for the entry reads, we saw from the mountain a river that seemed to run away to the westward. Before the party left the locality, they must have been aware that the stream flowed first eastally and finally turned northerly. But as they believed they were about 70 miles from the Winging Caribbean, they may have considered this new river had no connection with the lower well and dilly, and that probably it eventually flowed to the west, hence nothing definite was recorded as to its final course. The return journey Saturday 24th, course north east. We did not see any better way back. Wilson shot a rock kangaroo, so we saved a day's allowance

1:52:41of biscuits, very dull and rainy weather, stopped all night. Distance 16 miles. The party continued on an off-east course for two more days. On the 25th it is stated that the timber is of a white gum and a short stringy bark. Tuesday 27th, course north east. We had proceeded on for about one mile when we fell in with a fine open country. Wilson had the good fortune to shoot a kangaroo, by that means saved our biscuits, for we made a good dinner off him. We steered our course east southeast to see how that part of the country would turn out. We came to a fine open meadow country. Distance 18 miles. They appear to have returned somewhere towards the vicinity of the crossroads before they turned on an easterly course, when they probably travelled in the direction of Exeter or Bundanun.

1:53:43Wednesday 28th, course east. The above course we had at most delightful country, indeed I am not able to lay down the situation of it. We saw hundreds of kangaroos, one of them was shot by collins which still preserves our biscuits. Distance 21 miles. The delightful country referred to was probably to the southeast of Mosvail, perhaps to us the spot known as Manchester Square. Thursday 29th, course east. We soon came to the top of a fine hill where we found that we kept the outside of the country, but to the east and southeast is a scrubby stony and rocky country. We found in coming to this hill that we had crossed the head of a river that seems to run to the southward. We altered our course north to come to the mountains. During our day's journey, we saw some emus and many kangaroos, one of the latter Wilson's shot. The country still very

1:54:45fine till we came to the mountains, stopped under them for the night. Distance 19 miles. The stream which they crossed and which seemed to run to the southward was portion of the headwaters of either the Bundanun or the Yaronga Creek, probably the former, both of which flow into the kangaroo river, a tributary of the Sholhaven, which latter was discovered by Dr. George Bass in December 1797. When the lad speaks of having kept the outside of the country, he means that the party had been going round the edge of the goodland of the Moss-Fail District, which is largely made up of Vienna-Matter-Shale and Basalt. For to the eastward of Manchester Square, an onto was Fitzroy Falls, there is an area of Hogs-Bressandstone, which is the scrubby stony and rocky country referred to in the journal. The mountains to which they afterwards came by traveling north were portion of the Mittagong range. Friday 30th, course north by east. In this course Wilson

1:55:53shot a fessant, the traveling much the same. As I have before mentioned in going over the mountains the first time, miles we could not guess at. Saturday 31st, course north by east. In this day's journey we were very fortunate, for we came along the top of hill all the day. Sunday April 1st, course north by east. We kept the above course, we cleared the mountains and came on the cow pastures. Monday 2nd, made the Nippian and found a great fresh in it. Wilson saw numbers of ducks, some of which he shot, which made as an excellent supper, having eaten to a peace. Cross the Nippian, a set off by moonlight on purpose to save the ducks, and made prospect about four o'clock on Tuesday 3rd. Summary From a careful study of the journal, it appears that these explorers on their first journey

1:56:56travelled from the cow pastures to a spot, a mile or so above the junction of the bargo and Nippian rivers. Then, through the bargo district, Sephora's dock, Catherine Hill, and on past Elmerton, Mittagong or Baural, and the head of Joe Ajaykreek to Bullio. Being stopped by the steep mountain slopes leading down to the Willand-Eli River, just below its junction with the Winge and Karabi river. In returning, they again passed the head of Joe Ajaykreek, and came to the Winge and Karabi, above Berema, keeping on the northern side, and discovering that beautiful country around Bong-Bong between Baural and Mossvale. On the second journey, the party travelled from the cow pastures to the junction of the bargo and Nippian rivers, returned to near Stonequarry Creek, and then passed by Picton and Picton Lakes to Mount Jelor, which they ascended. From here they went across the Winge and Karabi, near Berema, to the summit of a hill known as Gingermullen, west of Mossvale.

1:58:00Thence passed Marolan to the summit of Mount Taorang, about six miles in a direct line east of Liff and Gulburn, and in addition to having had a distant view of the south-eastern portion of Gulburn plains to the east of Lake Bathurst, they discovered the upper portion of the Willand-Eli River. Here a shortage of provisions caused them to return, and in doing so they travelled past Exeter, and to the eastward of Mossvale, thence through the cow pastures to prospect. During the whole of these two journeys, except when they just touched on Shulhaven waters, these explorers were within the watershed of the Halksbury River, and although they passed the roughest portion of the southwestern mountains, and reached a point from which, so far as surface contours are concerned, they might have travelled without obstacle to the Lower Murr and Bidji. Yet they did not pass on to western waters over the main divide, which is situated about 20 miles further on. If they had proceeded to the next ridge about four miles west of Liff and Mount

1:59:03Taorang, they would have had a close view of those extensive and valuable downs known as Gulburn Plains, and had they possessed another score or so of biscuits, this result would most probably have been achieved. At the time these expeditions were made, the settlements at Sydney was only 10 years old, and the need for expanding into new country was not so pressing as was the case 15 years later, when the blue mountains were crossed. Otherwise the records contained in the Lads' Journal, if not fully credited, would at least have been investigated. While we must still admit the Blacksland Lawson and Wentworth were the first to carve out a passage over the blue mountains, and that Savae a G.W. Evans was the first to pass the actual main divide onto western waters. We must surely render due credit to the earlier work done among the southern mountains, by such as Ensign Francis Baralea, and the party of which Wilson and Barrex were members.

2:00:04When reading the record left us nearly 122 years ago by the plucky intelligent lad, who eagerly volunteered for this second most hazardous adventure, after having been nearly staffed to death during the first, we cannot but be impressed with the dauntless courage, untiring energy and readiness to face danger exhibited by these early explorers. And we are moved to admire the great services rendered by many Australian pioneers, in plunging into the mountain fastenuses, and opening up ways for the future progress and development of our great country. I wish to express my thanks to Mr. AJ Hare, Under Secretary for Lands, Mr. E.B. Harkness, Under Secretary, Chief Secretary's Department, and Mr. Hugh Wright, Mitchell Library, for permission to examine early records. To Mr. Percy C. Cordo, I am indebted for facilities afforded to visit the Bullio District, while for references to some early field books, I am grateful to Mr. H. Selkirk of the Lands Department.

2:01:09End of exploration beyond the Oppenepian in 1798 by R. H. Cambridge, read by Phil Benson.