EP 114: Q&A 5 — My Current Finger Training Routine, How to Deal With Bad Body Image, and Golden Nuggets for Newer Climbers

In Q&A 5, I tackle Patron questions about my own current hangboard training, how to fit everything in that we need to train, how to deal with bad body image, how my training and climbing have changed since starting the podcast, golden nuggets for newer climbers, where I found the theme song for the podcast, my van life internet setup, and much more. 

*Treat this episode like a buffet! Listen straight through or jump around as you like. I organized these questions into categories and added timestamps below.

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We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:

• Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, and Craig Lee

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Show Notes:  

thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/qa-5

Nuggets:

0:03:55 – Intro and updates

0:07:41 – My Personal Climbing / Training / Goals:

0:07:41 – Vincent: Current finger strength routine?

0:15:16 – Vincent: What does your current training cycle look like?

0:18:24 – Konstantinos: What are your European dream sends?

0:20:24 – Daniel: If you could send the next grade by sacrificing something pleasurable, what would it be?

0:22:20 – Christoph: How did it go trying to free Moonlight Buttress? Are you going back?

0:24:18 – Christoph: Plans for Yosemite this year?

0:26:00 – Matt: Top 3 go-to climbing shoes?

0:28:04 – André: What grade do you honestly feel is your absolute limit in bouldering?

0:29:27 – André: Do you miss some of the body strength exercises you used to do a lot? (Pistol squats, deadlift, etc.)

0:32:17 – Xander: How have these podcasts shaped the way you climb and train?

0:36:25 – Training / Climbing Advice:

0:36:25 – Konstantinos: What would be your golden climbing nugget towards newer climbers?

0:40:19 – Briana: How do you fit in all of the different types of training that seem necessary, without getting too fatigued?

0:44:34 – Neal: Verm mentioned curing his chronic elbow tendonitis by primarily training his shoulders. Do you have any insights into this?

0:47:42 – Nutrition / Body image:

0:47:42 – Savva: How do you deal with bad body image?

0:52:25 – Savva: How do you decide how to eat and rest without getting obsessive or spending a fortune?

0:54:37 – My Background / Route Setting:

0:54:37– Justin: Furthest you got from the WWU rec center and found tape on your shoe?

0:55:30 – Justin: Biggest positive change in commercial climbing gyms vs. when you started? Biggest negative change?

0:58:06 – Justin: Did WWU shape your climbing experience for the better? How do you think modern collegiate climbing experiences compare?

1:00:30 – Will: Did you have a favorite setting style as a route setter back in college?

1:01:52 – Will: Did you set at a bouldering or a rope climbing wall?

1:03:58 – Vanlife / Traveling / Lifestyle:

1:03:58 – Savva: How do you plan your climbing trips?

1:07:08 – Savva: Biggest expenses doing van life?

1:08:23 – Ainsley: Cultural differences between different climbing areas? Biggest takeaways from traveling?

1:10:46 – Briana: Is it difficult to find partners on the road? Any tips for finding partners for roped climbing?

1:12:38 – Fil: Any thoughts on how to fill your non-climbing time when living in a van?

1:15:08 – Skyler: Where do you like to climb during the summer?

1:16:06 – Joe: Favorite go-to dinners in the van?

1:17:42 – Liam: Internet setup in the van?

1:19:32 – Personal / Fun / Random:

1:19:32 – Casey: If you could have been a pro athlete in any other sport when you were young, what would you be?

1:20:57 – André: Top 2 climbing places outside of the US you would like to know and why?

1:22:17 – André: Who's is the freakiest climber you've seen perform live, and how was it?

1:25:32 – Savva: How does your family feel about climbing?

1:26:41 – Savva: What do you want to try / learn / experience / send next year?

1:29:35 – Savva: What’s the last book you enjoyed or found important?

1:31:22 – Vincent: As your fame grows, how do you see yourself changing?

1:33:21 – Vincent: What things you didn't think about when you started this venture have become important for you?

1:34:43 – Vincent: Are there any things that felt important when you started, such as training and climbing outdoors, that have changed in priority?

1:35:51 – Daniel: Are you thinking of settling down any time soon?

1:37:14 – Daniel: Are you dating now? Do you want kids?

1:38:44 – Darren: What are you grateful for and why did you stop asking that question?

1:41:12 – Podcast / Podcasting Goals:

1:41:12 – Taylor: How did you choose the theme song for the Nugget?

1:42:58 – Taylor: What podcasts does a podcaster listen to?

1:45:54 – Ainsley: When you say “I’ll link to that in the show notes”, are you just leaving yourself a reminder to do it when you listen back? Was this conscious when you started?

1:47:36 – Daniel: Have you ever had to postpone an interview because of your mood, mental health, or tiredness? Are there any interviews that you think you should have postponed?

1:53:34 – Christoph: What do you like best about how Tim Ferriss approaches podcasting? What do you like least?

1:56:12 – Linda: Does the finished podcast that we hear follow the actual order/flow of the interview in real life?

1:58:32 – Hunter: Do people recognize you at the crags? Do you find that you have to keep up a different persona/image while at the crags?

2:01:28 – Hunter: How do you view your progression in podcasting? And what do you think it takes for you to get to the next level (whatever that means to you!)?

2:03:30 – Wrap up