EP 138: Q&A 6 (feat. Taylor Fragomeni) — Ways to Improve Your Climbing if Access is Limited, and More Patron Questions

My close friend Taylor Fragomeni joins me for Q&A 6! We talked about ways to improve your climbing if your access to the gym or crag is limited, and we tackled Patron questions about bouldering at night, best bang-for-your-buck strength exercises, beta videos, daily hangboarding, how to warm up for max hangs on a lifting day, and route and boulder pyramids.

We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:

• Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, and Craig Lee

Become a Patron:

patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing

Show Notes:  

thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/qa-6

Nuggets:

0:00:00 – Introducing Taylor!

0:03:00 – Ways to Improve Your Climbing if Access is Limited:

0:03:00 – Metal Game

0:06:09 – Watching Videos

0:09:55 – Visualization

0:13:29 – Decision Maps (and having a backup plan)

0:23:43 – Adding Stability Elements to Strength Exercises

0:28:37 – Getting Creative

0:29:41 – One-Time Coaching Calls

0:30:24 – How to connect with Tay!

0:30:59 – Patron Questions:

0:30:59 – Hakan’s Question: Any nuggets for nighttime bouldering sessions?

0:36:42 – Cody’s Question: Training recommendations for a 5.10 mountain guide, and biggest bang-for-your-buck strength training exercise for climbing?

0:43:19 – Justin’s Question: How often do you look at other people's beta videos when you're trying a boulder or sport climb? Do you ever avoid them on purpose?

0:49:57 – Toby’s comment and the benefit of taking notes on podcasts/books/etc

0:57:06 – Sytse’s Question: Do you still do Emil Abrahamsson’s twice-a-day hangboard protocol?

1:00:26 – Murpheys_law24: How do you warm up for max hangs on a lifting day?

1:04:25 – Briana’s Question: Do “old sends” count for your current pyramid? And thoughts on the 1-2-4-8-16 pyramid vs. 1-3-9-27?