EP 14: Jonathan Siegrist — Current Training Methods, Second-Go Tactics, and The Fins Project

Jonathan Siegrist is a professional rock climber, and one of the most prolific sport climbers in the world. We talked about the evolution of his training, how he trained to climb 5.15b, current training methods, how he mixes in climbing with training, tactics for quick redpointing, a new direction for his climbing, and The Fins project.  

Support on Patreon:

patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing  

Show Notes:  

http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/jonathan-siegrist  

Nuggets:  

3:31 – Breakfast, how Jonathan eats on a climbing day, favorite bars, and eating the local cuisine when traveling  

8:38 – Training for the Red by climbing on campus rungs on the treadwall (while wearing socks)  

13:21 – Jonathan’s training evolution, and sending ‘Jumbo Love’  

18:18 – Current training methodology (broad strokes), working with Steve Bechtel, and adding more rest between sets and training days  

21:21 – Carving out more time for the same number of training sessions  

22:35 – Jonathan’s three favorite strength exercises (not related to finger strength)  

26:46 – More about weighted pull-ups and how Jonathan generally programs and advances his training  

29:19 – Combining heavy sets with plyometrics, and taking 10-15 minute rest between sets  

30:56 – Circuit style hangboarding vs. straight sets  

32:48 – 7:13 repeaters, why Jonathan now prefers them over 7:3, trying new things, and thinking about trying max hangs in the future  

37:19 – How Jonathan integrates outdoor climbing with training and the benefits of combining the two  

42:00 – Sending ‘One Hundred Proof’, and shifting focus to prioritize redpoint days  

44:09 – Why Jonathan doesn’t do any maintenance training, and the importance of trying hard  

47:36 – Jonathan’s propensity toward endurance, and the one thing he would do different if he could go back in time  

49:47 – How Jonathan thinks about strength and power training vs. bouldering  

50:36 – Sending ’Trice’ back in 2009, learning to climb at flagstaff, and testing well at finger strength but not knowing how to move fast  

55:09 – “The magic of climbing”, how Jonathan stacks up against other 9b climbers and prioritizing sending  

57:58 – Climbing with Adam Ondra and inspiration to focus more on flash and onsight climbing  

1:02:43 – Jonathan’s approach to second-go redpointing, his affinity for remembering beta, and removing hesitation  

1:04:49 – Jonathan’s spray wall drill to practice memorizing sequences, and how he uses visualization  

1:08:42 – How Jonathan thinks about deciding between second-go redpointing vs. flash or onsight  

1:11:36 – Leveling up, hopes to return to old crags to finish old projects, and Jonathan’s desire to (eventually) move away from sport climbing  

1:18:14 – Multipitch sport climbing, and “the single coolest thing” Jonathan hopes to do with his climbing  

1:19:33 – Trying the Dawn Wall with Tommy, and why Yosemite big wall climbing isn’t at the top of his list  

1:21:34 – The Fins project  

1:28:51 – Experimenting with techniques to combat dry skin and dry conditions, wet chalk, and Rhino Spit  

1:31:52 – “Do you think that thing will be 15b?”, the polarizing crux of Algorithm, and Jonathan’s best try  

1:34:08 – Establishing 5.15b in America and what makes that so hard (aside from it being hard…)  

1:36:00 – Plans to head back up to The Fins  

1:36:27 – Jonathan’s upcoming trip to Italy, plans to try Lapsus, and the coronavirus  

1:40:09 – Why Jonathan is so grateful for his sponsors and how they have really stepped up to support him, and the Metolius Light Rail  

1:43:58 – Writing, how his blog got hijacked and moving from jstarinorbit to jonathansiegrist.com, plans to write new content, and writing blogs for his brands  

1:46:54 – Jonathan on Instagram and Twitter, his new YouTube channel, and plans for upcoming videos with EpicTV  

1:49:17 – The Fins project video (WIP)  

1:50:35 – What Jonathan thinks holds back most climbers, and trying to spend 75% of your time climbing (on rock) and only 25% training (or climbing inside)  

1:53:11 – “Try hard.”  

1:53:58 – My poster of Jonathan, and being an inspiration as the best thing Jonathan feels like he can ask for