EP 142: Aidan Roberts — Training for Alphane V17, the Power of Replicas, and Embracing Your Style

Aidan Roberts is a 23-year-old from the UK, who has emerged as one of the strongest boulderers in the world. We talked about training for his trip to Switzerland to try Alphane V17, differences among top boulderers, how Aidan developed his climbing style, addressing finger weaknesses, training using replicas, his goal-setting philosophy, plans to train for Burden of Dreams V17, considering our environmental impact as climbers, and much more. 

*He sent Alphane V17 two weeks after this interview. Congrats Aidan!!!

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Show Notes:  

thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/aidan-roberts

Nuggets:

(00:00:00) – Intro

(00:06:13) – Seasons are shifting

(00:08:52) – Prepping for his trip to Switzerland to try Alphane V17 (9A), and setting his replica

(00:11:44) – Trying Alphane, and bullet points

(00:13:10) – We’ve already planned on a round 2!

(00:15:23) – Crushing hard boulders to Elton John, and finding focus through relaxation

(00:19:43) – Aidan’s first trip to the Rocklands and leaving competitions behind

(00:26:01) – How Aidan developed his style, and how he thinks about training his weaknesses

(00:28:02) – Differences among top boulderers, what Aidan learned from climbing with Dave Graham, and the shared trait of perseverance

(00:36:10) – Aidan’s climbing style, high-angle crimps, and leg crimping

(00:42:41) – How Aidan’s style is different from how Shawn Raboutou climbs

(00:46:38) – Redefining what it means to be strong, and making your training specific

(00:47:56) – Aidan’s thoughts on why none of the current V17’s (9A’s) have been repeated yet

(00:50:18) – Getting away from “simple tasks” and reductionism in training

(00:56:24) – How Aidan got so good at his style of climbing and high-angle crimping

(01:03:07) – Discovering sling testing with Dan Varian, and training with mono slings

(01:07:23) – Summary of how Aidan got so good at his climbing style

(01:09:28) – Training in a high-angle position, and how he strengthened his index fingers

(01:11:37) – Aidan’s pinkie strength, and testing with Ollie Torr

(01:16:09) – How strong is Aidain on the Beastmaker 2000 center edge?

(01:18:09) – Why simple finger strength testing doesn’t necessarily apply to our finger strength on the rock

(01:22:19) – More about training his index fingers

(01:26:21) – Quality and applicability in training

(01:28:08) – “There is no rapid magic formula for finger strength”

(01:29:07) – How Aidan approaches a project, and collecting bullet points for each move

(01:35:01) – Aidan’s pre-send rituals

(01:39:01) – Using bullet points to set the replica for Alphane, carving wooden holds, and measuring moves

(01:45:59) – Training his legs for Alphane, and Copenhagen planks for abductors

(01:47:50) – Using feet follow rules on his board

(01:49:57) – Climbing Alphane from two moves in, and how to train for long boulders on a home wall or board

(01:59:28) – Going to Finland to try Burden of Dreams V17 (9A), and what he learned from trying it

(02:09:49) – Mastery

(02:14:17) – Plans to train for Burden of Dreams

(02:19:37) – Screwdriver injury

(02:22:17) – Aidan’s philosophy with training on replicas, and climbing Isles of Wonder Sit V16 (8C+)

(02:27:21) – Balancing highly specific training (replicas) with other training

(02:29:48) – Aidan’s formula for goal setting (result, reality, and response)

(02:33:09) – His goal setting formula applied to Alphane

(02:36:37) – Influence and contribution, and Aidan’s podcast and magazine

(02:42:13) – Traveling, and considering our environmental impact as climbers

(02:52:24) – Thinking about offsetting my CO2 for my trip to Rocklands next summer

(02:55:39) – Plans to live in the US for a year

(02:57:21) – Wrap up