EP 234: Fundamentals — How to Climb on a Training Board

Fundamentals Season 2 (Part 1 of 6) — In this episode, Jesse and I each share our top tips and pitfalls for how to climb on a training board, such as a Tension Board, Moonboard, Kilter Board, Grasshopper Board, etc. This episode contains nuggets for folks who are just getting started with board climbing, as well as seasoned board lords.

Listen to more Fundamentals episodes:

thenuggetclimbing.com/fundamentals

The NUG:

frictitiousclimbing.com/products/the-nug

Check out my new portable hangboard design.

Revival Climbing Coalition:

revivalclimbing.com

EP 225: Tony Bell & David Bress (my episode with the founders of Revival)

Crimpd:

crimpd.com

Or download the Crimpd app.

Chalk Cartel:

chalkcartel.com

Use code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your next order.

BetterHelp:

betterhelp.com/NUGGET

Use this link for 10% off your first month.

We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:

• Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, and Matt Walter

Become a Patron:

patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing

Show Notes:  

thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/fundamentals-s2-part-1

Nuggets:

(00:00:00) – Intro

(00:01:14) – Our board climbing experience

(00:05:42) – Jesse’s Tip #1: Treat it like training (pay attention to weekly volume and progress it slowly)

(00:07:09) – Bonus Tip: Keep board sessions short when training power

(00:10:21) – Steven’s Tip #1: Have a clear plan for your session (and develop 2-3 go-to session formats that work well for you)

(00:11:39) – Example board session formats

(00:13:45) – Wall crawls (aka crimp crawls) & Jesse’s 3x3 session

(00:15:32) – Jesse’s Tip #2: Be creative and use the whole board as a tool (use extra holds/feet to learn hard moves)

(00:22:44) – Steven’s Tip #2: Don’t be afraid to break the rules

(00:25:08) – Jesse’s Tip #3: Jesse shares his methodology for teaching V4/5 clients how to use the Moonboard

(00:29:32) – Steven’s Tip #3: Do what you can do consistently and build on it slowly over time

(00:31:38) – Bonus Tip: Work hard moves backwards, and jump from the ground to practice latching

(00:32:53) – Bonus Tip: Find a TB2 to climb on (and why I chose the TB2)

(00:34:01) – Steven’s Pitfall #1: Using your board as your only form of climbing

(00:37:59) – More about wall crawls (aka crimp crawls)

(00:39:03) – More love for the TB2

(00:44:32) – Jesse’s Pitfall #1: Taking board grades too seriously

(00:47:49) – Steven’s Pitfall #2: Using board grades to downgrade outdoor climbs

(00:49:04) – Benchmark rants

(00:50:39) – Jesse’s Pitfall #2: Too much too fast

(00:53:13) – Steven’s Pitfall #3: Doing too much of the same thing

(00:54:44) – Jesse’s Pitfall #3: Doing too much off-the-wall finger training in conjunction with board climbing

(00:56:56) – One thing I like to do on the hangboard if I’m board training a lot

(00:57:48) – You need a reason to train things

(00:59:17) – Using wall crawls to maintain finger strength

(01:00:38) – Wrap up