EP 25: Nathan Hadley — Circuit Sessions, Onsight Practice, and Establishing the First 5.14 at Index

Nathan Hadley is a professional route setter and an all-around rock climber. We talked about completing the Canadian Alpine Trilogy, the benefits of training using bouldering circuits, how to practice onsighting skills in the climbing gym, establishing the first 5.14 at Index, WA, and the importance of following the psych.  

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patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing  

Show Notes:  

http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/nathan-hadley  

Nuggets:  

2:41 – The Canadian Alpine Trilogy  

7:23 – Prep for the Trilogy, bouldering base from route setting, and Nathan’s one-month approach for getting back in sport climbing shape  

8:53 – Fontainblaue-style circuit training  

12:36 – Why Nathan thinks circuits are more effective than route laps and 4x4s  

15:08 – Example two-day per week PE program  

18:21 – Low-end endurance  

20:52 – Structure in the things that matter  

22:15 – Competing at sport climbing nationals, onsighting in Turkey, and sending ‘Scarface’  

29:38 – Nathan’s “relaxed approach”  

33:39 – Switching modes, listening to your body, and following psyche  

35:37 – Onsighting practice in the gym  

40:57 – Warming up for hard onsights and entering the right mental space  

44:40 – Intentions and guidelines, and why Nathan’s trip to Turkey was so successful  

46:15 – FA of ‘En Passant’ (aka Ten Percent Direct)  

54:27 – Route setting as prep for ‘En Passant’  

55:39 – Outdoor bouldering and getting stronger by climbing bouldery routes and Index  

57:05 – Leaving his mark at Index  

1:00:00 – Chess and The Fun Triangle  

1:02:01 – Route setting with volumes, volumes as tools, and creating a diversity of climbing styles in the gym  

1:05:06 – Forerunning as training  

1:07:31 – Climbing less, and learning from the experts who know bodies  

1:09:26 – Grateful to be working  

1:10:24 – ‘Vanishing Point’, looking for a new route on Dolomite Tower, and dreaming of a WA Trilogy  

1:22:00 – Nathan’s website