EP 39: Matt Fultz — ‘Hypnotized Minds’ V16, Strength Before Weight, and Using Your Build as a Gift

Matt Fultz is a professional climber who is at the top of the bouldering game right now. We talked about sending ‘Hypnotized Minds’ V16, a typical day of projecting, deadlifting for finger strength, prioritizing strength before weight, practicing like you play, Mad Rock shoes, using your build as a gift, and starting OTG Strength with his wife Hailey.  

Support on Patreon:

patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing  

Show Notes:  

http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/matt-fultz  

Nuggets:  

2:22 – The send McFlurry, and a well-earned “cheat day”  

5:06 – ‘Hypnotized Minds’  

5:41 – Matt’s active rest day before a project day, and warming up for V16  

8:52 – Raising your body temp before climbing  

9:39 – Splitting time between projects, active rest days in the gym, and crimping on Hypno  

11:22 – What a project session looks like, and “I always go by feel”  

14:01 – What the send session looked like, Matt’s send temps, and “the colder the better”  

15:28 – Using your build as a gift, scrunch power, and working on weaknesses while taking advantage of strengths  

18:22 – “Strength comes first”  

18:52 – Balancing performance with training  

21:38 – “Practice like you play”, climbing on boards, the role of weight lifting, and “the most important thing is climbing”  

23:48 – Matt’s go-to weight-room exercises, and a teaser for OTG (more later in the episode)  

24:03 – Deadlifting w/ Tension Blocks vs. hanging from a hangboard  

26:48 – Matt’s grip selection for finger training, and grip training frequency (Off Season: every other day. Performance Season: once or twice per week)  

29:07 – How Matt decides between the different boards he climbs on  

30:52 – The importance of a strong support system  

33:10 – Matt’s trip to Australia w/ Jimmy Webb, Paul Robinson, and Nalle Hukkataival, and bouldering with a new level of detail  

35:07 – Nutrition timing, and planning meals around climbing, or vice versa  

37:08 – Matt’s pre-workout meal  

38:37 – The Mad Rock ‘Drones’  

42:16 – Drones sizing (about 1.5 to 2 US sizes down from your street shoe)  

44:50 – OTG Strength and how to train with Matt  

49:24 – Balancing working/coaching with climbing  

50:52 – Switching gears after ‘Hypnotized Minds’, project shopping, and climbing for fun  

52:23 – Moving to CO and having access to a lot of hard boulders  

53:40 – Dreams of van life  

54:26 – Gratitude  

55:30 – Where to connect with Matt  

56:03 – Progressing every year, drawing inspiration from Jimmy Webb and Dave Graham, and goals  

58:34 – The RV Moonboard  

1:00:03 – “We will enjoy our Oreos today”