EP 48: Alex Johnson (Part 2) — Isometric Training, Getting Strong, and the Lock-Off Challenge

This is part 2 of my conversation with Alex Johnson. We talked about how she improved from 12b to 14a in her sport climbing, why she no longer does weighted pull-ups, isometric training for arm strength, a typical strength training session, performance vs. training vs. practice, and about Athletic Brewing and the Post-Send Lock-Off Challenge.  

Support on Patreon:  

patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing  

Show Notes:  

thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/alex-johnson-part-2  

Athletic Brewing:  

Promo Code: “NUGGET25” for 25% off all orders for new customers  

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Nuggets:  

1:54 – Leveling up from 12b to 14a  

5:11 – Testing with Dr. Tyler Nelson, fast hands, and pinpointing weaknesses (finger and arm strength)  

12:52 – How Alex trained arm strength, and why weighted pull-ups are “moot”  

16:27 – Breakdown of AJ’s isometric arm strength session  

20:26 – AJ’s typical strength session layout (bouldering, arm strength, finger strength)  

21:43 – Breakdown of AJ’s finger strength session  

25:05 – “Snatches” on a campus board for contact strength  

28:48 – Athletic Brewing and the Post-Send Lock Off Challenge  

33:00 – Sending ‘The Muffler’ V12, and plans to go back to ‘The Swarm’  

34:30 – Highballs  

37:28 – AJ’s parting thoughts for her team kids, and “never be afraid to stand up for what you believe in”   

42:07 – Outro