EP 55: Kai Lightner — Disordered Eating, Flexibility for Tall Climbers, and Climbing for Change

Kai Lightner is a professional climber and the founder of Climbing for Change. We talked about how Kai discovered climbing, his reflections on an eating disorder, the importance of flexibility for tall climbers, early racist encounters, starting a non-profit to help open doors for other people, and some of Kai’s favorite training music.  

Support Climbing for Change:  

donorbox.org/climbing-for-change-launch  

Support the Podcast:    

patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing  

Show Notes:   

http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/kai-lightner  

Nuggets:  

2:53 – Tension boarding, creativity in climbing, and Kai’s first experience with hangboarding  

6:55 – Kai’s go-to training music  

8:01 – Halloween costumes, and the Tupac and T.I. quotes Kai shared in his graduation speech  

10:39 – The Olympics, Kai’s early role models, Chris Brown’s music, and Kai’s mom  

11:24 – Growing up climbing everything, the flagpole story, and Kai’s first day in a climbing gym  

16:16 – Kai’s first climbing gym, climbing on the same route to prepare for nationals for five years, and driving 6 hours to get coaching  

19:13 – Getting into competitions climbing, and most memorable competitions from 14 years of competing  

22:15 – Going climbing outdoors at the New River Gorge, being the only black people in a 50-mile radius, and navigating unwelcoming areas  

25:19 – Kai’s first racist encounter, and “the race talk”   

28:25 – Outdoor climbing as a break from the pressure of competitions, and taking a break from competing to go to college on a full scholarship  

31:01 – ‘Reflections on My Climbing Journey’, and Kai’s struggle with an eating disorder  

36:33 – Quick vs. sustainable, and finding a better way to be better  

38:10 – Thinking about food in a healthier way, climbing 5.14+ at 5’3” and 6’3”, and adapting to a grown-up body  

40:27 – Kai’s feelings about projecting, and his longest project to date  

41:59 – How Kai’s training has changed as an adult, a typical week of training, and Kai’s coach  

45:40 – Looking up to Adam Ondra, stretching for one hour every morning, and Kai’s drop knee stretch  

52:05 – Why being more flexible = being a better climber  

53:38 – Why Adam Ondra is the best  

55:00 – Feeling more complete as a person by helping people  

56:04 – Kai’s thoughts on climbing pace  

58:31 – Patron Question: What is it like being the tallest professional climber out there? Does Kai run into any situations in which he thinks, “Damn, I wish I were shorter…” If so, how often?  

1:01:35 – Patron Question from Joe: I’m 6’5” and I wonder if Kai has any rules or beta for climbing through scrunchy moves that you can’t reach past?  

1:02:42 – Volunteering with diversity and inclusion organizations, opening doors for others, and bridging gaps  

1:07:29 – Climbing for Change (C4C), partnering with One Climb in Atlanta, and launching scholarships for individuals  

1:10:47 – Patron Question from Nathan: What challenges have you faced in developing C4C?  

1:12:18 – How to donate to C4C  

1:13:03 – Patron Question from Nathan: What are the benefits of having your mom as a coach? What are some of the difficulties?  

1:16:34 – Patron Question from Nathan: Do you think you will ever get into trad climbing? How about big walls?  

1:18:11 – Kai’s (very impressive) trip to the Hurricave, and aspirations to climb 5.15  

1:21:12 – Patron Question from Anna: Having grown up in the spotlight, how does Kai view his private life vs. his public life, and does he struggle to find a balance?  

1:23:43 – Patron Question from Sarah: If you could get every young climber to internalize one message what would it be?  

1:25:24 – Most recent meal, Asian food, Cheetos, favorite songs, and the crying laughing emoji  

1:30:27 – Family  

1:31:04 – Excited about Climbing for Change  

1:31:57 – Instagram, outfits, and sharing experiences to help others