EP 72: Eric Hörst (Part 2) — Coaching Kids, Training Slopers and Pinches, and the Science of Collagen

This is part 2 of my conversation with Eric Hörst. We talked about the differences between Eric and his sons’ (Cameron and Jonathan) training plans, advice for parents who want to get their kids into climbing, how to train pinch and sloper strength, why Eric started PhysiVantage, and the importance of collagen for building stronger fingers.

Discount code: 

“NUGGET15” for 15% off of full-priced PhysiVantage products

Support on Patreon:  

patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing 

Show Notes:  

http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/eric-horst-part-2

Nuggets:

01:23 – Differences between Eric’s training vs. his sons, and why his sons played football

11:40 – Maintaining climbing strength during football season

15:08 – Patreon Question from Eli (advice for parents getting their kids into climbing)

21:20 – Exposing kids to a variety of climbing styles

22:53 – Patron Question from Jordan Cannon (5.14, or free climbing El Cap?), and Eric’s first 5.13c

27:53 – Another Question from Jordan (would you rather see your kids climb 5.15, or free a hard El Cap route)

32:50 – Patron Question from Gunter (how to train pinches and slopers)

39:12 – Learning from other experts and coaches

40:52 – What Eric is most excited about in training for climbing right now, and the Moonboard and other system walls as a game-changer

45:16 – Proper nutrition, PhysiVantage, and protein

50:02 – Crush

52:00 – Collagen, and vegan and whey protein

56:48 – How I think about taking supplements, and replacing beer with collagen ;)

1:01:15 – Why we should eat collagen separate from meals (when we can), and collagen vs. protein timing

1:10:42 – A life’s journey

1:14:07 – Gratitude