EP 74: Tom Randall on Patience, Finger Training, and the Late Night Climbing Show

Tom Randall is one of the Wide Boyz, and the cofounder of Lattice Training. We talked about Tom’s cellar, meeting Ollie Torr and starting a coaching company, how he and Ollie trained each other's weaknesses, having patience, key shoulder exercises, hangboard principles, stories from the Late Night Climbing Show, and Tom shared his insights into my own finger strength journey.

Support on Patreon:  

patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing 

Show Notes:  

http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/tom-randall

Nuggets:

3:35 – The cellar 

6:47 – Patron Question from Felix: Why did Tom start Lattice Training, and how important is data?  

11:25 – Meeting Ollie Torr and testing his finger strength

14:15 – How Tom helped Ollie improve his endurance and efficiency, and a message about patience

18:19 – What Tom did to get strong

23:14 – Key TRX and rings exercises for the shoulders

28:30 – My finger strength journey, and Tom’s insight into my training habits

37:59 – Finger training methodology, and off-season vs in-season training

45:50 – Is increasing training capacity (work capacity) a good goal?

49:20 – Hangboard protocol principles

54:47 – Patron Question from Sarah: Should new climbers “just climb” rather than train?

59:29 – Question from Steve McClure: Common deficiencies in route climbers who want to improve their standard?

1:02:39 – Question from Vijay: Relationship between finger strength and grade?

1:04:12 – Question from Lena: Favorite non-crack climb?

1:05:03 – Question from Lena: Most horrible crack climb you’ve ever done?

1:05:55: Bonus question from Lena: If you could put Jacob Schubert on any crack climb, which would you choose?

1:06:35 – Question from Nick: Balancing fun and hard work

1:08:41 – The Late Night Climbing Show

1:14:42 – The Lattice YouTube channel

1:16:02 – Gratitude