How to Reduce Your Car Insurance (And Save Thousands)

On this episode of the personal finance podcast, how to reduce your car insurance and save thousands.

What's up everybody and welcome to the personal finance podcast. I'm your host Andrew founder of

mastermoney.co and today on the personal finance podcast, we're going to talk about how to reduce

your car insurance and save thousands. If you guys have any questions, make sure you join the

mastermoney newsletter by going to mastermoney.co slash newsletter and don't forget to follow us

on Apple podcast, Spotify, YouTube or whatever podcast player. You love listening to this podcast on

it. If you want to help out the show, consider leaving a five star rating and review on Apple podcast,

Spotify or your favorite podcast player. Now today, we're going to be diving into step by step

exactly how to save more on your car insurance. I am going to go through the 10 steps that you

should think through if you want to save more money on your car insurance. Then we're going to dive

into once you save those dollars, you need to make sure that you are funneling them towards

something that actually brings you value. And I'm going to talk about exactly how to do that step

by step and how much money even a modest amount of savings can grow into by the time you retire over

the long term. Then we're going to be answering some of your questions on a money Q&A and the

second half of this show and we will be answering a bunch of your questions that have come and we

have tons of emails coming in again. If you want to get a question answered, you can join the mastermoney

newsletter and respond to those newsletters and we will get them answered there. Also, we'd love to

hear from you in the comments down below. We are considering doing live phone calls here on the

personal finance podcast where you guys can call in and get your questions answered live. And so

that is something that we are considering. If you would like that, if you think that is something

of interest, please comment down below and we will get the mastermoney hotline going so that you guys

can get the ball rolling on that. And so this is a really actionable episode and every single

person out there should be evaluating their car insurance every single year. In fact, in mastermoney

academy, we make sure that our members are doing this on a yearly basis because this could save you

hundreds of dollars. And we've had tons of members already saving hundreds of dollars inside

a mastermoney academy. So I'm going to give you the framework on how to save money when it comes to

your car insurance, even talking through how to negotiate your car insurance, how to get that bill

reduced. We're going to give through tactical things on how to scan through your bill and to make

sure that all the line items on your bill are going to be a need and not just a nice thing to have.

And then we're going to talk through what to do if you have an older car and how to reduce your

car insurance as well. So this is an episode that could save you hundreds of thousands of dollars

over the course of your lifetime. And so this is incredibly valuable for each and every single one of

you. So we're going to jump into a break and we're going to dive right into it. Let's get into it.

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So step number one is you need to shop around and compare quotes. Now this is a self-explanatory

but the problem is most people don't even do this step. A lot of you out there right now are

listening and saying to yourself, actually, you know what? I just renew my car insurance every

single year. I just take whatever my insurance agent gives me and let me tell you right now.

That is the wrong approach. And if you've been doing that for a long period of time,

you're leaving hundreds if not thousands of dollars on a yearly basis on the table.

This is one of those things that every single year when it is time to renew your car insurance,

you need to make sure that you are shopping your car insurance. I cannot stress this enough

because this is going to make a huge, huge difference. And you need to be strict about this.

You need to make sure that you're doing this and setting a calendar time to do this every single

year. So for most people, I would make sure that you just set up a calendar invite to yourself to

ensure that you have this as part of your money routine and you can look and see, hey, when does

my car insurance renew? Do I need to make sure it's just auto renews and or do I need to go and shop

this insurance? Now, there is a number of different marketplaces that you can go out to.

Number one is you can find an independent insurance broker who can go shop your policy to a bunch

of different carriers. This is a great way to get started, especially if you know someone locally

who can do this, finding that independent insurance carrier is a great option.

Number two is we have a link down below in the show notes that can also help you shop your

insurance. You're going to get three to five quotes just by utilizing that link. And so this is

a quick way to do this online without even having to call someone. So I highly recommend that you do

both options. First, you call up an independent insurance broker, give them your information,

but also use the link down below and you're going to get quotes from tons of different carriers.

And I would just price this thing out to the carrier that makes the most sense for you.

Now, we're going to talk about some of the things that you can do to get this bill reduced as we go

here, but those are the two things that I would do first. So we have a link with money.com.

They have a tool that allows you to shop with a bunch of different carriers that is going to help

you through this process. So at least fill out your information. It is completely free. You have

nothing to lose. And so check that link out below, but you need to shop this on a yearly basis,

because that is where the real savings is going to happen. Now, if you go and just call up, say,

state form, or you go and call up all state, all of a sudden, if you're just renewing with those

carriers, then you're not getting your policy shopped around where these independent brokers

wouldn't can go to a bunch of different carriers in the shop around. Then if you want to go to some

of the big guns like state farm or all state or some of the other ones, then you can go ahead and do

that just to make sure you have the full coverage. Now, this process on a yearly basis should take

you less than one hour. And all of a sudden quotes are just going to come into your inbox and give

you the ability to be able to compare those quotes. You can get a quote with a link below in 10

minutes. You can get a quote with an insurance provider by just giving your information in 10

minutes. And then you just evaluate each of those quotes that come in. Now, when you're talking to

that independent insurance broker, you want to make sure that you give them all the information

that you need. And you got to make sure you get enough coverage for your needs. Number two,

is this is for folks out there who potentially have an emergency fund already in place or a larger

emergency fund in place. If you are someone who has six months or more in your emergency fund,

then this could be an option for you to get your overall car insurance reduced. And what I'm

talking about here is to raise your deductible. So if you don't know what your deductible is,

it is the amount that you agree to pay out of pocket when your insurance kicks in after a claim.

So if you get into an accident and the damage is $3,000 and your deductible is $500,

you pay the first $500 and the insurance carrier is going to pay the rest of this.

Now, the higher the deductible, the lower your overall payment. So how would this work and how would

this actually help you save money? Well, first, you could raise that deductible and increase the

amount that you're paying if an accident were to happen. And in that case, you can take the

difference, whatever the difference is that you would have been paying to the insurance company,

and you can put that into your emergency fund as, hey, a car accident or a car damage fund. And so

as long as you have enough to cover the deductible there, then you were going to be a-okay. And then

you're going to be in the green going forward. So what I would say is if you are doing this and you

want to raise your deductible, you could take these extra dollars and funnel them into something

like your emergency fund in a high yield savings account. And then from there, you can take those

extra dollars and just continue to save maybe two times your deductible or three times your deductible.

Then you're covered for decades to come, so you don't really have to worry about that. And if

you're a safe driver, this could be a great option for you. Now, what are the pros of raising your

deductible? Well, the pros are it can meaningfully lower your annual premium around 10 to 20 percent.

So if you're paying $4,000 per year in car insurance, this could lower it $400 to $800 per year.

And so if you increase that deductible, you can see where the math could work out in your favor.

Now, the risk that you're taking here is that you got to have enough in your emergency fund to

cover the deductible. Just in case you don't get a net positive happening because you're getting

an accident, you maybe you're rearing somebody or you're getting to some sort of accident,

then you want to make sure you still have the cash on hand to cover it. And then while you're

making that savings, you can actually automate the savings into your high-yield savings account.

And if you have a bucket that is for car accidents or car repairs, that's a great spot to put these

funds. It makes sense if you are a safe, low-risk driver. For example, I am known as a driver who is

like a grandpa. Everybody calls me a grandpa when they drive with me. I always drive the speed limit.

I have never gotten a speeding ticket in my entire 37 years until this recent year where I finally

got one. And it was something that I could not believe my streak was broken. I was trying to get a

lifelong streak of never getting a speeding ticket. And I just wasn't paying attention one day

when I was driving. But for someone like me who really never has issues, never gets an accident,

I think this is something that makes a lot of sense. It also forces you to self-insure for smaller

incidents, which is actually a smarter financial move in most cases. Now, there are cons and risks to

this. So I want to make sure that we point those out before you go and just increase your deductible.

Number one is if you get into an accident, you are on the hook for a larger out of pocket expenses.

So you got to make sure you understand that risk. And if your emergency fund is thin, say you have a

$1,500 emergency fund or a $2,000 emergency fund or maybe just have two or three months in place,

then I would not do this yet until you have enough in your emergency fund. The power of having an

emergency fund is you have savings that can happen just like this. So you could think of a rate of

return of having that emergency fund. You could be saving, you know, 10 to 20 percent on the amount

of money that you would be saving in a car insurance thing. And these are some of the factors and

the numbers that are not always factored in when you have cash on hand. This is why you want to

have cash on hand for protection, reducing anxiety. But in addition, you can save money in areas

just like this. So a rule of thumb for this is only razor deductible to a amount that you are

comfortable with. If a $1,000 wipe out your emergency fund, you do not want to be spending that much.

This is not worth it to optimize that trade off. So instead, you want to make sure you're looking at

that way. Number three is if you were looking to save on car insurance and you can't find a savings

from the first two options, even though you absolutely should be able to, then you can also bundle

your policy. So a lot of insurance carriers are going to have renters, maybe they have homeowners,

maybe they have other policies that are in place like pet insurance or whatever else. And if you

bundle your policies together, a lot of times they will give you additional savings. So a lot of

times when I have done this in the past and I've gotten quotes for this, it is anywhere from 5 to 10

percent. I have seen people tell me in master money academy that it has been highest 25 percent

savings when they bundle policies together. So it's going to depend on your insurance carrier.

A lot of times it depends on how long you've been with that insurance carrier. But bundling

discounts are real. And if you are going to pay for the insurance anyways, making sure you also

get quotes for that insurance everywhere else. But if you are going to pay for that insurance,

it may make sense to bundle it together. So you need an overall savings of anywhere from 5 to 10

percent. I think that's the realistic mark is 5 to 10 percent typically when you bundle your

insurance together. Number four, and this is something you have to do and this is part of the

negotiation process is once you get these insurance carriers to give you quotes, I want you to ask

about discounts. So insurance carriers are really just going to volunteer discounts to you.

Instead, you need to make sure that you are asking about discounts. Now if you have an independent

broker who you are working with, a lot of times they will tell you about those discounts to help

you get the lowest overall price. If they don't, you might want to find a different independent broker.

But let me give you a couple of different examples of what those discounts could be. Number one is

a good driver discount. So you may have heard of this with a bunch of different insurance carriers

where if you haven't had an accident for the last three to five years or any tickets, anything like

that, then you could get a good driver discount. There's also a good student discount. I know state

farm does this. I know there are other carriers out there that do this. If you are a good student

with a GPA above a 3.0 plus, they will give you a discount on car insurance. There's also a low

mileage discount. So if you're someone who doesn't drive a lot and you only go from point A to

point B and then back home and you're not a big driver or you work from home, this is great for

you work from home folks. Then a low mileage discount can help you reduce your overall

insurance as well. So this is 7,500 to about 10,000 miles per year. That's what that would qualify for.

A defensive course driving discount. So you can actually take a defensive course with some carriers

and they will give you a discount there. There's also military and occupational discounts. So if you

are military or you are first responder, anything like that, make sure you ask about those discounts.

Paying full discounts is a good one to save a few percentage points as well. If you are paying

six months ahead of time or one year ahead of time, that is a great idea. Now how do you make

sure that you pay for this if you're someone who is trying to figure this out? Instead, you make

the first payment and when you make that first six month payment, you just treat this like a bill

and force that savings into a high yield savings account every single month, but you get the

discount ahead of time. So you just save the cash, boom, then you get the discount ahead of time. So

that is something I recommend for a lot of folks is if you do pay every six months or if you do pay

on a yearly basis, you can actually just treat it like a bill and send it to your savings account.

Then when the time comes for that insurance to be due, the money's just there. And then also paper

lists and auto pay obviously for a lot of folks that saves us like three to five dollars a month,

but it is something that you can do overall. So make sure you're asking for all those different

coverages, all those different discounts and then after you ask for all those, ask,

are there any other discounts? Because that's very important and they will tell you about all of them.

Also, I would highly recommend you can go and research online and see with a specific carrier,

do they offer any other discounts that are out there? So I think that's a great one too.

Number five is I want you to review coverage on older vehicles. If you have an older vehicle,

this is something most people need to make sure they are doing because if your car is worth less

than $4,000 to $5,000, dropping comprehensive and collision coverage may make financial sense.

So what is comprehensive and collision coverage? So collision covers pays to repair or replace your

car if you're involved in an accident with another vehicle or another object. Regardless of whose fault

it is, that's what that coverage is for. Comprehensive coverage covers damage from your car from

events that are not a collision. So you could think of someone vandalizing your car, you could think of

someone, you know, a fire or a flood or if there's a hurricane or a tornado, any of that kind of

stuff. If you hit a deer, those types of things are going to be what is comprehensive coverage.

Now, both are optional if you have an older vehicle. So if your vehicle is pretty old and you were

driving around that hoopty and you're proud of that thing, these are optional coverages to hold.

And if you have a big old emergency fund and you are someone who has been driving your car for a

long time because you're a real wealth builder, you're a millionaire next door, then this could be

something that could be very, very powerful. Now, there's pros and cons to this. The pros to

keeping your comprehensive and collision coverage is that it protects you from large unexpected

repair bills. That is one pro. The second one is comprehensive is relatively cheap and covers a wide

range of risks. So a lot of times it may just make more sense to have it and carry it. I like to

carry insurance that is cheap typically because it just gives you peace of mind and is just an

additional emergency fund if something were to happen to you in life. And then it's worth keeping

up the car has significant value. Obviously, but if your car does not have significant value,

then we may not want to keep it. Now, cons and risks of actually keeping and holding on to this

is insurance companies will only pay up to the actual cash value of the car. So if you are

carrying this coverage and you are paying more for this coverage over the course of let's say the

next two years than the car is actually worth, this may be something where you want to reconsider.

And if your car is worth $3,500 and you are paying $600 per year on this, then that's just

something where maybe you'd be better off not paying it. And then after the deductible,

your payment shrinks further. So a $3,500 car with a $1,000 deductible means your max claim is $2,500.

So just some cons to hanging on to that. And I think that's really important. Now, there is a

rule out there called the 10% rule and the 10% rule states that if the combined annual cost of

comprehensive and collision is more than 10% of your car's current market value, it is generally

worth dropping. And I think that's very, very important to note because if you check your car's

value on Kelly Bluebook or Edmunds first, then you can do the math on this. And a lot of times

there are even calculators out there that can help you with this to make sure you run the numbers

and do the math. All right, number six is to improve your credit score. A lot of auto insurers use

your credit score as a deciding factor to see if you are in the good range, if you're in the excellent

range, and meaningfully can reduce your premium overall. So improving your credit score helps you

with loans, it helps you with your insurance, and it can help you with a number of other things.

That's why we say it is a six figure money decision and really a seven figure decision long run

because you can save so much more on all these different areas. So making sure your credit

scores in the right spot and taking action to improve that score is going to help you overall

when it comes to car insurance. Number seven is usage based insurance. So programs like progressive

snapshot or state farm has a drive in safe program, which I take part in or all states drive-wise

can track your driving habits and safe low mileage drivers can save anywhere from 10 to 30%

through these specific programs. So I would ask if you have any of those three providers or if

there are other providers out there, I would ask if there is any usage based insurance coverage

policies that can help you reduce your overall car insurance. These policies are very helpful

if you are a safe driver or if you don't drive a lot, a lot of times they'll give you a little

device or a lot of times they'll use your phone now and they can track how you drive, how far you

drive, all these different things and this can help you save a lot because these are real numbers

that are going to help them ensure that you are actually not driving certain distances or you are

actually a safe driver. And so I really like these programs because they can help you save a good

chunk of money on your car insurance. Now we are only through seven different options. You can

already see that if you do not do this stuff on a regular basis, you're probably overpaying

for car insurance. You're probably overpaying for how much you really are driving or what you're

actually doing. Number eight is to remove unnecessary add-ons. This is where the negotiation is

going to come into play. This is where you're going to need to make sure that you are reviewing

your current car insurance bill and reviewing the quotes and policies that are coming across your

desk so that you can make sure that they don't have unnecessary add-ons. So things like roadside

assistance. Well, if you have roadside assistance already or you don't need it and you just want to

call up AAA or some company and you want to take on the risk yourself, that is one where they can

add on some extra money. Gap insurance is number two. So if you have a newer car and it has gap

insurance in place, it covers the difference between what you own and what you owe. So if you drive

off the lot with a new car and you did not put 20% down, gap insurance is probably something you

want to carry. But if you did put 20% down, you don't need gap insurance. So you don't have to

have that coverage in place. New car replacement coverage. That's another one that is a lot of

times on there. Accident forgiveness is a fourth one. So you've seen this with a lot of different

policies. If you feel as though you want to make sure that you want to take on the risk yourself,

that is okay. But accident forgiveness prevents your rate from going up if you get into one accident.

It prevents it from going up dramatically. Insert just helps you with that overall. But if you have

never been an accident or don't plan on getting an accident, that could be something that you could

take on that risk. But again, there's pros and cons to each of these and it depends on how much risk

you want to take on. Uninsured or underinsured motorist coverage. So this one is actually worth

keeping for most people because if someone hits you and has no insurance or not enough to cover

your damages, this fills in the gap. So for most people, you know, there's a lot of idiots out there

who don't have insurance. And so you want to make sure you probably hold onto this one. I wouldn't

recommend taking it off unless you really want to take on the risk and you have tons of cash on hand.

And then there's medical payments or personal injury protection. This covers medical expenses

for you and your passengers, regardless of who is at fault. And so that can be very helpful.

If you have strong health insurance, this may not be necessary. But in no fault states,

it is often required by law so you need to check your law in your local state to make sure you go

through this. Now the exercise is simple. You just go line by line on your coverage and make sure all

those things are absolutely necessary for what you are trying to accomplish. Now number nine,

this is one that most people don't know about. And if you live in a apartment complex or you live

in a community that has either a garage or they have covered parking, if you move to a lower

risk zip code, or if you start parking in a garage instead of the street, you can notify your

insurer. And sometimes they will reduce your overall insurance because you park in a garage.

So for all my people out there who only parked their cars in the garage and didn't know this,

make sure you call up your insurance company. Just ask, will they give you a discount if you park

in the garage and you could prove it to them by showing that it's parked in the garage. That is just

an easy discount and easy phone call to make. And some places will actually give you a discount on

this. This is pretty cool. And then lastly, number 10, and this is the most important, probably

overall. It's just maintaining a clean driving record. Making sure you don't go above the

speeding limit and get tickets, making sure you're not running red lights, making sure that you are

one of those drivers that doesn't get into accidents. There are people who get into accidents

pretty frequently and people that don't. But if you can maintain a good driving record,

any tickets that come up, go ahead and try to contest those tickets, especially if you disagree

on what is going on there to bring your safe driving rate down. Because the single highest leverage

move for most people out there is shopping around renewal time. That is the single most important

thing that you can do, but also maintaining a good driving record is going to help you just

automatically have a lower overall insurance premium. Now, most of us need to do these things

because most of us are feeling the pain of car insurance right now. We feel the pain of what

is going on and how that has been increasing like 30% over the course of the last couple of years.

It is mind blowing. How much car insurance has increased over the last couple of years,

and so doing these steps can really, really help you. Now, most people who walk through these steps

are going to see some realistic savings on hand here. And when you see this realistic savings,

I want you to decide, well, where does this money need to go? Does it need to go towards my

emergency fund? Does it need to go to my savings buckets? And there are going to be a number of

things that you can do here. Let's say, for example, you save 200 bucks per year. Well, if you

save $200 per year, just shopping around at renewal time, this can be super helpful for most people.

And a moderate savings is going to be about $400 per year. Well, $400 per year is a great difference,

especially that's funding a 529 plan that is funding your future retirement. And we're going to

show you how much this can grow to in a second. $600 per year is solid. And if you are exceptional

at this, you can save $800 to $1,000 per year just by shopping this around. Now, the average

American pays around $1,600 to $2,000 per year for car insurance. So saving $500 to $600 is

realistic for most households, especially if you've never done this before. If you've never

compared costs, use the link down below. Make sure you compare those costs because that is going

to be a great way to have annual car insurance savings. So let's see how much this can grow to

you because there is a real time value of money when you have this savings. And if you take this

savings and put it towards investments, put it towards future you, look how amazing this could be.

So let's say for $200 per year, we'll put this chart on the screen at $200 per year. In 20 years,

you could have saved $11,455 at it growing at a 10% rate of return, 30 years, 32,000,

and 40 years, $88,000 per year. Now $400 per year savings in 30 years if you automated that money

and just transfer that over to investments, you'd be saving $65,000 over 30 years and $177,000

over 40 years. At $600, it'd be 98,000 over 30 years and 265,000 over 40 years. At $800,

$131,000 over 30 years and $354,000 over 40 years. And then lastly, at $1,000 per year,

you'd be saving $57,000 over 20 years, $164,000 over 30 years and $442,000 over 40 years. If that

doesn't motivate you to try to save $1,000 per year in your car insurance where you could have

half a billion dollars more in retirement, I don't know what will. And making these tweaks over and

over and over, it's just a thousand bucks a year. Listen to me, that is less than $100 per month

that you can get savings from. And if you can get that savings and you invest those dollars instead

and put them in a low cost index fund or you put them in a stock that you believe in or you

put them in an asset that you believe in or maybe you save it in a rental property and you can get

a 10% rated return every single year, historically, that's what the S&P 500 has returned. If that's

the case, then you are going to see a difference of a half a million dollars over 40 years. That is

mind blowing to me just by taking an hour every single year to ensure that you lower your costs

and then automating that contribution into your investments. That's all you got to do. It's a

two-step process, but you got to go through all these steps we just talked about to make sure that

you can save enough cash on hand. So most people out there are like, well, why would I do all this

work to save 500 bucks? I just showed you why because it will absolutely change your financial

trajectory long term. So that's step by step exactly how to save money, save yourself thousands,

if not hundreds of thousands of dollars over the course of your lifetime when it comes to

car insurance. And imagine if you did this with all your bills, all of a sudden you're saving

yourself millions of dollars if you automate the difference into investing. And that's what we want

each and every single one of you as well builders to do. Perfect. So let's go and we're going to jump

into the Q&A next. Oh, and by the way, we've just launched a new class inside of Master Money Academy.

It is a mini course that shows you how to negotiate each and every single bill. And we are launching

a different bill every single week right now. So we'd love to have you join so you can check out

that mini course if you want to. Again, the link is down below in the show notes. If you want to

join Master Money Academy and if you get stuck anywhere, you get to ask me questions on the weekly

coaching course. Alright, let's jump into some of the questions that you guys sent in.

The first day of spring always does something to me. I start to clean out closets,

I start to clear out the garage and getting things organized again. And every year,

it makes me think about the bigger stuff too. Not just spring cleaning my house,

but cleaning up my long term to do list. And one of those things is protecting the life that we

built and that responsibility can feel heavy. Making sure your family would be okay financially

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Alright, so let's jump into the first question. The first question is I have a large RSU position

that makes up roughly 40% of my overall portfolio split across 401k's and brokerage accounts.

I know I need to diversify intelligently over many years to avoid spiking my annual income.

I'm 41 and I plan to retire between 52 and 55. My projection show roughly 100k annually at a 4%

withdrawal rate, assuming my RSU stake rose at an average market condition of about 7% over that

time frame. Should I strategically sell out of my RSU position and reinvest in low fee index funds

or sell and invest in real estate rentals? My hunch is index funds, but I'm curious about real estate

given the diversification and tax benefits it could offer as a high W2 earner. Fantastic question

here. And this is something I think a lot of high earners are dealing with. When you have RSUs,

you're going to see a big concentration with your overall net worth in those RSUs, especially if

they are valuable in the way that you are setting this up. And so for most people out there,

I'm going to give you kind of the framework or the breakdown that I would think about this in.

Again, if you need to contact an advisor or you need to contact your CPA to make sure it fits

your situation, that's what I would absolutely recommend that you do. This is not financial advice.

This is just kind of me talking through your situation and what I would do. But at the same time,

here's exactly how I would think about this. Your instinct is probably right. If you're a high W2

earner, giving real estate a real look could be very beneficial for you. Now, index funds win

in a number of different ways. They win for simplicity, they win for diversification, and they win

for time efficiency. If you don't want to spend a lot of time on rentals or you don't want to spend

a lot of time on real estate, then it may not be the asset class for you. But for someone targeting

retirement in 11 to 14 years, those things matter a lot. And real estate is not just a lifestyle

choice. It is a legitimate tax strategy for wealth building. And so we want to make sure that if

we have a high W2 income, we find ways to unlock different ways to unlock wealth. Well, how do we do

that? One, we can do it with an LLC and have a side business, which real estate helps us do. And

two, we can invest in real estate to get some of those tax benefits. Now, your RSU concentration

is something that is a real priority. Because for me specifically, if I had that much

concentration in an RSU, unless I really believed in the company and you would know better than

I would about what company you are invested in and what the financials look like potentially

in what the stock looks like and all those different things. But if I had 40% in a single company,

I'd probably be awake at night. I'd be sweating bullets. I would not want to have that much

concentration in one specific company. Instead, I would rather move my dollar somewhere else to get

a little more diversification. Now again, you know the company better than I would. And you can

say to yourself, well, I think this is going to grow dramatically. If you're in some company like Google,

or if you're in a company like Meta, or some of these big, negative seven companies, well,

maybe you think you're better off by utilizing these RSUs. But there are strategies where you can

still get additional diversification, especially as you begin to approach retirement. So a

disciplined, multi-year selling schedule is one thing that I would consider and spreading

sales across different tax years. That can help you dramatically when it comes to thinking about

your RSUs. And that could be the right move. So I would work with a CPA or the financial planner

to model this out, especially if your RSUs are a big, big number, because they can help model

this number out for you and give you more indication on exactly where you need to go. Because you

could, if you do this the wrong way, it could push you into a higher tax bracket and their fees

are going to be worth their weight and gold, just to make sure that doesn't happen. And so that's

one thing I would definitely consider. Now index funds in my opinion are the clean, reliable path,

meaning their low cost, low time commitment. You don't have to worry as much. They're easy to

model. They're easy to predict what is going to happen. And a three fund or a total stock market

portfolio, in my opinion, are just easy ways where you don't have to worry. You don't have to think

about your properties. You don't have to think about putting on a new roof. You don't have to think

about renovations, all those different types of things. But the tax upside with real estate

is genuine. You can force depreciation. You can accelerate depreciation. You can get different

values when it comes to real estate. You can also gain cash flow. And cash flow is a big thing when

it comes to investing in real estate. I really would not invest in real estate just for tax benefits.

You also need to make sure that you have the cash flow on hand because they well purchase rentals

is going to be very important. For those of you who don't know, we actually have a real estate

investment calculator. I will link it up down the show notes below if you guys want to check that

out. I think it's 19 bucks. It's just a spreadsheet that takes you through the exact steps you need

when it comes to evaluating a real estate deal. If you're a master money academy member,

it's free inside master money academy and you can check that out too. But there's also a couple of

downsides. And the downsides are tenants. It's the maintenance. It's managing contractors. It's

managing a property manager. If you have somebody managing your property, but it's also liquidity risk.

Real estate, as you can see right now at the time of recording this and recording this at a time

where there's a lot of liquidity risk. People are having a hard time selling their homes. And when you

have a hard time selling your home, this can make a drastic difference in what you do and how you

make moves. And so for most people, I think that diversifying into stocks and real estate is a good

move, especially in the age of AI. Ownership is a really important thing to have. But if you

do not want to deal with that kind of stuff, it may not be the best for you. And so if real estate

appeals to you, I would consider allocating a percentage toward that and having conversations

with your CPA and having conversations with anybody else in your corner to see if that is a viable

move for you. And you can free up a percentage of your RSU's 10, 20% towards that so that you can

begin to invest that direction. And then you can divest from being so concentrated in one single

company. So I would lean towards, you know, if it was me specifically, I'd lean towards index funds

probably as my primary vehicle to divest. I would then go into real estate as a high W2 owner,

but I have experienced in real estate. I understand what I'm getting into every time I invest in it.

And so that would be something where you could test it out, see if you like it with one property,

and then kind of go out from there. So congratulations on being in this situation.

Congratulations on being tracked to retiring at, you know, early at 55. I love that you're projecting

that out. I love exactly where you are. And that's what a true wealth footer does. You have those

projections in place. You are making the right moves. Absolutely fantastic stuff there. So great

question. Let's jump into the next one. All right. Question number two is, Andrew, I took your

investing for beginners class and finally opened up my fidelity account and started my first investment.

Yay. Well, that is fantastic. And thank you so much. And for anybody interested, we do have an

investing for beginners master classes on Tuesdays and Thursdays. And we will link that up in the

show notes down below so that you can check that out. It is a class that is about an hour long

and it takes you through exactly how to make your first investment. Absolutely free to use. So

if you want to check that out, make sure you do. I transfer money into my fidelity brokerage account

and it shows as available to trade, but not settle cash. When I try to buy, I get a warning about

a good faith violation. I interpret this as I can buy, but I cannot sell this until the cash

settles. Is that correct? Because I want to invest $1,000 a month and don't want to incur any

violations. So number one is your interpretation is correct here. You can buy with unsettled funds,

but if you sell those shares before the cash settles, then it triggers a good faith violation.

GFV is also how they say this. And since you have no intention of selling, you have nothing to

really worry about in your specific situation. If you're a long-term investor, this doesn't really

matter. What settlement actually means is when you transfer the money into the brokerage account,

it typically takes about two to four business days before the money actually settles in your

brokerage account. And so this is one of those things to just be aware of when you start to move

money over. And if you're going to invest $1,000 per month, you can just automate that. And it's

really easy to just schedule your bank transfer around a day that you are going to know that you

have cash on hand, or you can just do it the same day every single year. And fidelity has a thing.

And we talk about it in that investing for beginners class, where you can just automate that

contribution and it can automatically invest in whatever you are looking to invest in. So let's say

you wanted to have a 60, 40 portfolio, you can automate $600 into something like an S&P 500 or whatever

else you're looking at doing based on your research. And then you could do 40% bonds or whatever

else you are looking at investing in. And so those can be automatically done without you even

having to go back in there and investing those dollars can all be automated now. And I think it's

a really, really powerful way to look at building wealth. So really, really good question. Again,

and this is I think a very powerful thing that you're doing is getting started. So congratulations

on getting started. That is absolutely fantastic. And I commend you for getting the ball rolling

in a thousand bucks a month is no joke that will compound into something fanatastic over the course

of the next few decades if history repeats itself. So really, really good stuff there and congratulations

on doing that. Let's get into the third question. I am 20 years old, a junior in college pursuing

a nursing degree and I graduate in spring 2027. I have $17,000 in savings, make about $200

per month during school. Great. And have $11,764 in student loans at 5.5% to 6.53% interest.

I don't have to start repaying until 12, 12, 28. Should I start investing in index funds now

or focus on paying down my student loans first? I know you say high interest debt comes first,

but this feels like a unique situation since my repayment is still years away.

Now this situation is more unique than most and your instinct to think about this carefully

is absolutely correct because most of the time paying down debt before investing is the

clear answer. A lot of times this can be the clear answer for most people, but if your loans are

not yet accruing repayment obligations and your interest rates are relatively moderate, not high

interest by our definition and maybe one or two could be, then you have time youth and earning

power within your career ahead. So you can understand what your loans are actually doing right now.

We just did an episode with Robert Farrington. If you didn't hear that, go back and check that

one out. That is the new guide to all of your student loans right now. So make sure that you

check into that because I think that's really, really important. But your subsidized loans are not

accruing an interest while you're in school. And this is genuinely free money from the government.

So I really would not worry about that one, but your unsubsidized loans, especially if they are at

the 6.53% rate, those are the ones that have a guaranteed return if you pay them down. So if you

don't have another spot, you want to put these dollars, you could go for there. But you are

starting at the age of 20 and the case for compounding this money, especially when you're on a fine

line like this, is it's really worth thinking about investing your dollars. In fact, every single

dollar that you invest over the course of the next 30 years is going to be worth $10. And at the

age of 20, we have something called the wealth builders matrix. And if you go and check out the

wealth builders matrix, it is going to tell you based on your age, how much will this money compound

based on every single dollar you spend? Now for everybody else, the quick math is at a 9% rate of

return. If you got that, every dollar you invest in 30 years is going to be worth $10.

So 10x, currently where you are at right now, it's actually $10.06. That is the math that you

want to know. But for someone who is as young as you are, you can really get this money going

and compounding over the long term. And so I think nursing is a stable end-to-man career. It's

going to be around for a very long period of time. And I think that is one of those things that

has a strong starting salary. So if you are looking to get this paid down, you could start to get

your money invested right now. Those dollars are going to compound over time. And you could really

get the ball rolling. If it were me, I'd probably begin investing my dollars. And unless you just

really wanted to get rid of some of that debt, especially if any of it was above that 6% interest

rate, then that's AOK with me. You're going to get a guarantee rate of return by paying some of

that debt down. You're not in a bad debt position. You're in a debt position that is AOK

currently. And if it gets larger, you think it's going to get larger than maybe that is something

where you just want to pay it down to get rid of it. Now, here's a couple of things that I would

suggest is one, I would make sure that I maintain a healthy emergency fund. So making sure that you

have $17,000 saves, you are in that strong position. Do not drain it and keep at least that six months

on hand. Then I would chip away at the unsubsidized loans, even 50 to 100 bucks right now can really make

a big difference and make a big dent in the overall amount that you're paying, especially if it's

that 6.53%. And then I would open it up, you know, for me specifically, I love the Roth IRA. I would

look at a Roth IRA to get some of that compound growth and look at some of the investments out there

that you were interested in. And then once you graduate and land your first nursing job, you can

attack those loans aggressively once you get to that point in time. But missing out on some of those

key dates is really, really important. And so I would build the emergency fund, I would get my

dollars invested. You can chip away at some of those loans if you want to. And then from there,

then you can start to really attack them once you get your first job. But the bottom line is you

don't have to choose right now completely. Instead, you can truthfully make the decision later on

down the line. All right. Well, that is it for this episode of the personal finance podcast.

If you guys like these episodes where we give you a ton of value up front and then we answer your

questions back and let me know down in the comments below. And if you are someone who saves money

on car insurance by using that car insurance tool, let us know down in the comments below. Would love

to hear some of the ways that you save money on car insurance as well. Again, we want to use the

comment section on YouTube Spotify and wherever else to make sure that we are helping each other out.

That's what we want to do is help each other out as much as possible on the wealth building

journey. And these comments are the perfect spot for that. So appreciate every single one of you

listening to this podcast episode and appreciate you being here today. If you want to get a step-by-step

financial plan, you want to reduce your stress and anxiety around money and you want to make sure you

are building wealth going forward, then I would highly encourage you to join MasterMoney Academy.

MasterMoney Academy is the community of wealth builders who are all working towards building wealth.

We give you the 25-step program that shows you exactly how to build wealth. In addition,

when you get stuck on any step whatsoever, you get to ask me questions. And a lot of you,

if you're struggling, you're stressed, and you are worried about your money, this is going to

give you a lot more peace than you currently have right now. You can absolutely transform your

financial life. All you need is to have a system in place and we give you this system in place.

And then if you get stuck, I'm always there to help you out. So again, thank you so much for

listening to this episode. If you want to join MasterMoney Academy, check it out down below. We

have a seven-day free trial for podcast listeners. So I would love to have you in there if you are

interested. Thank you again so much for being here and we will see you on the next episode.