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Who's ready for the truss fall?
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Wellington, Washington, March 1st, 1910.
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The mountain had been patient for nine days.
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On the 10th, it stopped waiting.
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Wellington was not much of a town.
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A power plant, a post office, a grocery, the baylay's hotel with its well-stocked kitchen, a saloon,
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and a handful of shacks clinging to a shelf of rock at the West Portal of the Cascade Tunnel,
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five thousand feet up in Washington's Cascade Range.
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The whole place existed for one reason, the Great Northern Railway.
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Every soul who lived there worked for the railroad,
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and the railroad was the only way in or out.
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The nearest real settlement, a whistle stop called scenic,
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sat miles down a treacherous grade to the West,
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to the east, the tunnel board through the mountain toward Levenworth and the dry country beyond.
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On the evening of February 22nd, two Westbound trains left Spokane three hours apart,
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headed for Seattle and the ports of Puget Sound.
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Train number 25 was the Spokane local, a passenger train hauling seven cars behind a big 12-wheeled locomotive.
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Train number 27 was the fast mail, loaded with letters and parcels and a handful of clerks to sort them.
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Together, the two trains carried roughly 125 passengers and crew.
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The trip to Seattle should have taken half a day.
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It would take the better part of forever.
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The trains cleared the Cascade Tunnel and emerged at Wellington on February 23rd
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to find the world had turned white.
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Snow fell at a foot per hour.
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On the worst day, the gauges measured 11 feet.
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The drifts buried the tracks in both directions and kept piling higher.
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Great Northern's rotary plows, massive spinning blades mounted on locomotives,
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chewed into the snow and choked on the trees and debris mixed into it.
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One broke down. Two stalled between slides.
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The fourth got stuck at the east end of the tunnel.
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The shovelers fared no better.
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Hired hands, most of them paid 15 cents an hour to dig out the line by muscle alone.
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After days of backbreaking labor in a blizzard, they demanded a raise to 25 cents.
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Superintendent James O'Neill refused, so they put down their shovels and walked off the mountain.
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By February 26th, the telegraph lines had come down.
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Wellington was cut off. No messages in.
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No way to know when help might come.
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Or if anyone was sending it.
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The passengers ate their meals at the Baylays Hotel and stared out the windows at the white wall
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closing around them. The women cried. The men went quiet.
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Avalanche's thundered down the surrounding slopes at irregular intervals.
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Each won a reminder of what the mountain could do when it felt like it.
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None hit the trains, not yet.
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Some passengers decided not to wait around to find out.
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A group set off on foot toward scenic,
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picking their way along the buried tracks and sliding a thousand feet down a near vertical slope
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to reach the station below.
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One man leading an earlier party had been swept away by a slide and buried alive.
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He turned up at a lodge miles away, half frozen, but breathing.
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Word came back to Wellington. He made it, but nobody else should try.
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The ones who stayed had their reasons.
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Some were too old, too young, or too injured to walk.
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John Gray had boarded the train and nooksack with a broken right leg.
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His wife Anna and their 18-month-old son, Varden, were with him.
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Ida Starritt was traveling with her seven-year-old boy Raymond and her mother.
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Catherine O'Reilly, a 26-year-old nurse from Sacred Heart Hospital in Spokane, stayed.
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John Parseybach, a 24-year-old rotary conductor, married six months, stayed.
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Earl Longcoy, 19 years old, barely arrived from Wisconsin to serve as O'Neill's secretary, stayed.
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There was also the question of the tunnel.
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Some passengers begged the crew to back the trains inside,
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out of the path of any slide. The railroad men refused, and not without cause.
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Steam locomotives belched smoke and carbon monoxide, and everyone knew what happened when trains
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stalled in tunnels. The passengers at Wellington were caught between two ways of dying,
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and had to pick which one scared them less. They chose to stay in the open, at the base of Wendy
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Mountain, and hope. On the last day of February, the snow stopped. Rain moved in, warm and steady,
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and with it came wind. The change in weather felt like mercy. It was the opposite. Rain on a
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mountain of fresh snow is a trigger. The water seeps between the layers, loosens the bond between
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old crust and new slab, and turns the whole slope into a loaded gun. Then the thunder started,
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just after one o'clock on the morning of March 1st, a violent electrical storm rolled through
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the cascades, lightning cracked against the ridge line. Charles Andrews, a great northern
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employee, was walking toward one of the bunkhouses when he heard a sound that did not belong to thunder.
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He turned toward Wendy Mountain and saw it coming. A slab of snow, ten feet thick,
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half a mile long, and a quarter mile wide broke loose from the summit, and began to move.
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The slopes above the tracks had been stripped bare by clear cutting and wildfire,
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and there was nothing left to slow it down. Andrews would describe the site 50 years later.
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White death moving down the mountainside above the trains, relentlessly it advanced,
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exploding, roaring, rumbling, grinding, snapping, a crescendo of sound that might have been the
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crashing of 10,000 freight trains. The avalanche hit the two trains and picked them up whole, locomotives,
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box cars, passenger cars, sleepers, mail cars, and hurled them 150 feet down into the tie river valley.
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It wiped out the depot, the water tower, and several cabins. It buried everything under 40 to
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70 feet of snow and shattered timber. The baylay's hotel, the largest building in Wellington,
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stood untouched. The avalanche had passed within yards of it. Most of the passengers and crew
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had been asleep. Some were killed instantly by the impact. Others suffocated in the dense packed
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snow, alive and conscious in the dark, with no room to move and no air to breathe. The people in
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the hotel heard the roar, rushed outside in their nightclothes, and found the trains gone.
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Where the tracks had been, there was nothing. They scrambled down the slope and began digging with
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their hands. 23 people came out alive. Fireman Samuel Bates was pulled from beneath a locomotive
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after six hours. Ida Starrott was trapped for 11 hours before rescuers reached her. Her son Raymond
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survived with a gash across his forehead that he carried for the rest of his life. The Gray family,
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John, Anna, and Little Vardin, 18 months old, were all pulled from the snow. John's broken leg
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had broken again. 96 did not come out. 35 passengers. 58 great northern employees sleeping on the
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trains. Three railroad workers in the cabins. Among them, Earl Longcoy, the kid from Wisconsin.
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John Parseybach married six months. Catherine O'Reilly, the nurse. Nine male clerks, most of them in
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their twenties. One of them, Alfred Hensel, survived only because he had fallen asleep at the far
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end of his car. The avalanche broke the male car in half. The eight men on the other end all died.
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The telegraph lines were still down. No one outside willing to knew what had happened until a
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traveling engineer named Mackie walked to scenic with the news. Rescue parties arrived on March
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2nd. Newspapers called the site Death Hill. Bodies were strapped to toboggins and sletted down the
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mountain to trains at lower elevations, which carried them to Everett and Seattle. Some were identified,
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some were not. The last of the dead was not recovered until late July, 21 weeks after the
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slide. At the corner's inquest, great northern called the avalanche an act of God. The jury agreed.
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No one was held responsible. O'Neill, who had been offsite working on a rotary plow when the
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slide hit, spent the rest of his career with the railroad. He died in 1937. The company invested
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millions in concrete snow sheds. In October of 1910, the name Wellington was quietly retired.
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The town became Thai after the creek that ran through it, in the hope that a new name might
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bury the memory. It did not. When the new cascade tunnel opened in 1929, it bypassed the
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site altogether. The town emptied out, burned, and vanished. One footnote, a man named Joseph
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Benier had been identified by several acquaintances as one of the Wellington dead. Benier turned up alive
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at a funeral parlor and announced, my friends say that you have me dead downstairs. I want to say
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that I am the livest man in town. Not everyone who walked off that mountain was so lucky,
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but every single one of them lived. Not one person who left Wellington on foot before March 1st
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perished in the avalanche. The ones who stayed stayed because the railroad told them it was safer
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to wait. Today, hikers on the iron goat trail can still find rusted spikes and twisted scraps of
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rail from the wreckage, half buried in the overgrowth at the bottom of the ravine, a thousand feet
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below where Wellington used to be. The mountain, of course, has not moved.
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