In this episode, compost specialist and owner of Living Roots Compost Tea Troy Hinke explains why compost that have sat longer are generally better quality than newer composts.
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Transcript
Welcome to Gardening Beyond Basics. I'm your host Diego, D-I-E-G-O, bringing you podcast
since 2013. If you're new here, welcome. Gardening Beyond Basics is a deep dive into the
topics that you thought were simple when it comes to gardening. From vegetable varieties
to soil to pests to seeds, we'll talk to knowledge experts to go way beyond the basics
and dive deep into the nitty-gritty about subjects that you thought were simple, but in reality
are much more complex than you can even imagine. In every episode, we'll dive deep into
one specific topic to make you a better grower. I hope you enjoy it. It's Gardening Beyond
Basics. Lately, I've been doing a lot of reasoning and kind of fallen into this school of cold composting,
where you are trying to employ the biological activity of fungi over bacteria. So that you leave
the pile more passive, you're not turning as much, you're not concerned with temperature, and if we
remove the regulatory aspect out of it, like for some people that doesn't matter on a garden scale,
is there some validity to that that if I maintain a pile with less turning, I'm enacting fungi
more in the decomposition process and potentially preserving more carbon in the soil because there's
less aerobic activity, which would then send carbon up into the atmosphere as a byproduct of that
aerobic activity? You are correct in that. It's not just cold composting though. It's been a while
I need to get it going again, but I ran an experiment on aerated static piles. Are you familiar with
that? ASP? Right. A forced air system. So you've got pipes laid on the ground that you, I don't know if
you can see my fingers, but you would put material on the pipes like this and stack it up and then
you're forcing air up through that. And through my experiment with that, I had great results getting
fungi going in the pile because I'm not turning it. Yes, the whole deal with fungi and my whole
mission since I started making compost and doing what I'm doing is to get more fungal compost
and get more fungi into the soil through our conventional agriculture practices.
Using a tractor or having heavy machinery on the soil, it causes compaction or especially
tillage. A lot of people think that every spring they need to go out and take their tiller out and
rip up the soil. So when I was talking before about that saprophytic fungi and seeing saprophytic
fungi in the forest, when you notice that it looks like strings on a stick or on leaves and that's
what's visible to our naked eye, but most of these things that I'm talking about aren't visible to
our naked eye. So there's lots of things in the soil that we're not seeing and there's tons of
thread just miles normally in a healthy, especially in a forest system in a healthy soil. There's
miles of fungi underfoot that if you were to come through with a tiller or in this, what you're
talking about compost if we're getting this saprophytic fungi and using mycelium going throughout the
pile, if you come through and turn that, you're ripping up all those threads and setting the stage back
a lot earlier to where there's more bacteria that are going to thrive and that fungi needs more time
to get going again. So it's provide the oxygen with don't break up that network? Exactly, yeah.
Yep. And with so cold composting, most people in their backyard are going to throw
they mow their lawn and maybe they collect some of the grass clippings that are going to throw
those in a pile and then in the fall or in the end of summer they might have a garden and they're
throwing some of those scraps on there and then the fall they're throwing leaves in there and
sticks and things like that. And if you're not turning that, it's most likely going to go through
an anaerobic process because it doesn't have air in there. But if you leave it long enough, aerobic
microorganisms are going to take over and you will have good compost in the end and hopefully
have good fungi in there too because you haven't turned it. But it's a matter of letting it age
and mature like a year or a year and a half and most people are wanting compost a lot quicker
than that and not wanting to have to wait around. Yeah, the more I read on this, I think that's
the trade-off. People are rushing it and I think they're giving up a lot of the value in that
compost. Like it's as though we say it's better to have it on the soil now at a five than it is to
wait for it for another 12 months and put it on the soil where maybe the effect on the soil is
I'm making this up a 50 versus a five because those organisms have diversified. They've matureed.
There's more of them. You're just adding better quality, more concentrated stuff to the soil
versus adding something that's good, but it's just quick. Right, yes, I totally agree.
And in that sense, to me, if you were purchasing, if someone were to know to look at the biology
of a compost and like maybe got a sample, like they have a local municipal compost and they
got a little sample and were able to look at it with a microscope and say it was a five like
you talked about. They're going to have to pay, they're going to have to spend more to pay for
twice as much compost or whatever to get it down to get this same effects as if you were to let
a compost age a little bit longer and then use less and have better biology on your soil.
I noticed on your Instagram page that you had started a Johnson Sue reactor. So David Johnson
had found out through his research that one ton of compost applied on an acre of land
will get results. He's got fungal dominant compost. He's applying that at one ton per acre which
it's really hard to fathom one ton per acre. That's probably two to three cubic yards of compost.
So that's you're probably not even going to be able to see that as you apply that down at that
rate, but he got effects. He through his research, according to his research, he got effects where he
had an effect on the biology in the soil then and was able to get more fungal going in the soil
with just one ton of compost, whereas most people are putting down 10 tons of compost at least,
I would think, which is still pretty minimal. Isn't it all going to this fungal dominated
compost anyway? So if we take that fungal dominated compost pile and it takes 18 months and we
just let it sit there, then we apply that. It's just broken down as it's going to get it. It's
base nutrients at that point, where if we take more raw compost after let's say 45 days of
turning, we add that to the soil. It's going in this compost, but it's still going in the soil now
going to evolve and break down more by fungal dominated organisms into those base nutrients.
So at the end of the day, after 18 months, you're still getting the same thing,
but one happened in the soil, one happened in the pile. So if it's someone who's worked then
even not even necessarily cultivating by conventional means, but someone who's still been
tilling and are organic, they may have been suppressing that fungi for so long or breaking it up
that they don't really have much fungi in the soil. And if you
if you take a compost that's half aged or whatever, you're most likely not going to have that same
amount of fungi, the fungi hasn't been able to grow onto the surfaces more to take over to have
that same amount of fungi. I'm trying to think of an analogy to this, but I can't think of one.
Well, it makes sense. You're better culturally get all out in one place where it's hyper-concentrated
in the perfect environment, building up to soil population by introducing that,
then assuming that there's enough biology in the soil that can take care of the more raw
ingredients you're putting into it. Right. Yeah. Yeah. So if you already have decent biology in the soil,
it wouldn't be as big of a deal because we really need to be feeding the soil. That's the whole
kind of what we were getting at in the beginning of our conversation. It's not about feeding the
plant. It's about feeding the soil, giving the soil what it needs. And then the soil is going to
have interactions with the plant to for the plant to manage its own nutrient needs and feed itself.
So yeah, with that, putting compost down on something that already has good biology in the soil,
is just helping to add more organic matter to it that's going to be foods for microorganisms that will
help to to give nutrients to the plant. So yeah, if you do have good biology in the soil, it wouldn't
be as big of a deal to use more of a mulch compost that doesn't have as great of microorganisms,
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