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Hi everybody, it's Dominic here from The Rest Is History. So we are in the middle of an
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exclusive miniseries for our restless history club members about photography and the way it has
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been interwoven with the story of history. And in today's episode with a great photographer,
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Chris Floyd, we are looking in particular at music. So we'll be talking about the great
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bluesman, Robert Johnson, who sold his soul to the devil at a crossroads in Mississippi. We'll be
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looking at the great titans of jazz assembling in Harlem in the 1950s for a group portrait.
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We were talking about the career of David Bowie and we are talking about an iconic image of
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Grace Jones from the 1980s. Now if you don't want to miss out on this, all you need to do is to go
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to The Rest Is History.com to sign up and not only will you get this exclusive miniseries,
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but you'll get a host of truly unbelievable benefits. So we hope to see you at The Rest Is History.com.
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And in the meantime, here's a little clip of the episode.
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So our third image that Chris has chosen and Chris, this is somebody that you photographed
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yourself, but you didn't choose your own picture of him and that's David Bowie. Because before
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you talk about the picture, photographing David Bowie, was it fun? Uh, stressful because again,
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you're with someone who's worked with the very best and also not only with the very best,
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but also done it a lot. Right. And has probably limited patience for any
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faffing around. But it was good. He was surgically funny about other famous people.
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Oh, that's always good. And their foibles. Right. Yeah. Right.
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Was anybody particularly disliked? Well, I wouldn't say disliked, but he made a very pointed
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and amusing comment about Brian Ferry. Well, okay. And other 70s glam rock kind of product.
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So this is a picture. It was an album cover. It's Aladdin Sain.
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Aladdin Sain. Yeah. And it's taken by a great 60s photographer, actually. Brian Duffy,
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one of the kind of, um, one of the Alfonso Rebel of kind of 60s photography.
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Yes, there was Duffy, Terence Donovan and David Bowie. And they were given, they were known as
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the Black Trinity. Right. Um, all from the East End, all, you know, classic 60s working class
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boys who did good. You know, high-end photographers had been involved with
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album covers since the Beatles, I guess, and see how the mid 60s, 64, 65.
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And Brian Duffy being invited to come in and do David Bowie. I mean, it's a sign of how successful
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David Bowie is at this point. Because what year are we in? We're in 73. So Bowie's at his peak?
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No, he's not at his peak, actually. So there's a great story about this. So Bowie's manager,
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it was called Tony DeFrice, operated on the theory that if he made the record company spend a
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lot of money, then they would be committed because they would, they would have spent so much money
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on a project that they would have to put the effort in to make their money back. This album cover
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in particular, he said to, he went to Duffy and said, this, we got to make this album cover as
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expensive as we possibly can. And Duffy said, well, no problem. He's delighted by that.
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So he hired one of the best makeup artists in the world. The printing of the image was done
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using a codec process called die transfer printing, which was the most expensive process by which
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you could print an image in those days. So I was going to ask about this because there's a
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technical story behind this picture. So for people who can't see it, I mean, you should have a
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look that you can google it or you can watch the episode on the website or whatever. So the
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image is a kind of whiteened pale David Bowie shot from kind of shoulders upwards. He's got this
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kind of shock of red hair and he's got this zigzag pattern on his face, the kind of red and blue
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zigzag. And the technical skill that was brought to this. So Duffy had just done the Pirelli
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calendar, was that right? He's using the same techniques that he'd used on the Pirelli calendar.
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Yeah. So it's die transfer. So you make a plate, a printing plate for each color in the,
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so red, green and blue, you make a separate plate for each, for each color. It's extremely
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expensive. And it was done in Switzerland, which made it triply expensive, having to go to Switzerland.
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Yeah. So there's a documentary about him actually called the man who shot the 60s. He quoted
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Tony DeVrice wanted to make the most expensive cover he could possibly get a record company to pay
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for. If it cost 50 quid, then they could say, so what? But if it cost 5,000 pounds, the record
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company, we're now having to pay attention. The record company couldn't have come to a better
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con artist than my good self. Okay, good line. So he does this extremely expensive process.
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It's all part of Bowie's, I mean, Bowie's famous, isn't he, for pioneering the idea that a rock
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style or pop star has a kind of, has a malleable image that is constantly changing between each
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incarnation. He will assume different personalities. So Ziggy starred us, or Aladdin, saying, or
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the thin white juice, or whatever. And this is all part of the image making that goes hand and
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hand. It's actually very different from the, you know, the Robert Johnson pictures. He is, he is
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unconscious of his image. He's not even thinking about his image because he's not conscious of
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himself as a musical celebrity, of course, he's just a jobbing musician. Well, Johnston's in a
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pre-image era, isn't he? He's a pre-mass media era, really. People are not selling music based on
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on an image in the way that they work by the time we get to Bowie here. So even the jazz musicians
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in a great day are Harlem. There was an innocence, I suppose, to that image. They're all quite,
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they're all very smartly dressed, aren't they? They're sharp. They're sharply dressed. But there's
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no sense, I would say, of it being a contrivance. Whereas the Bowie image is pure contrivance, no?
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Yeah, they've all thought about what they're wearing. Yeah. And they've all put effort and
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consideration to it because it was important to them to look good, but they've all done it in their
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own, their own individual personal way. With Bowie, you have elevation of the individual to superstar
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status, rather than simple, old fashioned star status. He's sort of going, it's superstars,
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you know, the idea that he's from another planet and he's an alien and all of that stuff.
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And there's a great interesting background to the lightning flash on his face. So he got that
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from Elvis. You know, the Memphis Mafia, Elvis's buddies, that is sort of posse. So they were the
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Memphis Mafia and he had this logo designed for them, which was a lightning flash and the letter's
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TCB, which stuff a taking care of business. But Elvis actually stole that from the Templar Christian
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Brotherhood. TCB, he took the TCB of the Templar Christian Brotherhood, changed it to taking
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care of business, stole their lightning flash and made it his own thing. And then Bowie stole
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the lightning flash from Elvis. So there's this lineage of it all comes from the Templar Christian
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Brotherhood. Wow. Actually, as Bowie, you could argue, his fascination with image leads him
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down some dark path, doesn't it, in the 70s, the point at which he's giving interviews saying,
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oh, Hitler was a rock star, all of this kind of thing. Well, later on in his career, he said,
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oh, yeah, I was carrying too far the idea of playing a part, I suppose. And as a photographer
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yourself, so here, when you're, I mean, obviously this is all contrivance, this picture. And when
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you're taking your portraits of people, when someone says to you, will you go and photograph,
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I don't know, Paul McCarney or Bill Gates or however, how much are you as a photographer colluding
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in the creation of a infected image or how much are you trying to instead get to the truth?
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I mean, that's just two totally different things here. They're creating, it's an album cover.
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That's what they're doing. They're creating an image, a two-dimensional image for an album cover.
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The things you're talking about with the things I have, those things, I'm doing a portrait for
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an interview in a magazine or something like that. Yeah. And really, you're trying to
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capture some element of them that is compelling on the page, not necessarily any truth,
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but just an image that makes people stop and read their headline.
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Thank you so much for listening to that. So if you want to hear the rest of that episode,
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which is of course all about music, then just head to therestishistory.com to join the club and
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to get all the other benefits. So please do join us at therestishistory club. We would love
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to have you with us. And on that bomb shell, bye-bye.