The Industrial Revolution: Tinned Fish Edition

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In previous episodes,

we've explored canning

and pickling and chocolate butter,

bread,

just tons of other food products

that really underwent transformation

due to industrialization.

But we have really dived

into the industrial revolution itself.

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Yeah, the industrial revolution

was in a revolution per se,

like we did our whole

revolution series.

It was a period

roughly from the late 18th

to the 19th centuries

when societies shifted

from handmade

agrarian economies

to machine-based industrial ones.

I'm so excited

in today's episode.

We're going to explore

how the industrial revolution

sparked modern industry,

transformed daily life,

and really set the stage

for the world that we live in today,

which includes, you know,

the current global climate crisis.

I feel like we look at,

when you say industrial revolution,

you think that advancement,

evolution, production,

productivity, like endless growth,

the industrial revolution

really introduced this idea

of consumption, you know,

factories just churning out goods

faster than ever before,

cities expanding jobs available,

and then that went

alongside this boom in population.

Yeah, totally.

And, you know,

before this mass production,

people ate what was grown,

hunted, gathered,

most meals were made from scratch.

There were few stores

selling prepared foods,

and people would salt,

and pick, go, and dry,

and all of this,

but everything changed.

And then we see factories burning coal,

leading to the release of carbon dioxide

and to the air,

and, you know,

on this massive industrial scale,

and then oil and gas followed coal,

giving us cars,

and airplanes,

and plastics,

and, you know,

we're living with the repercussions

of this chain reaction

that began over 300 years ago,

you know, scientists

can trace this raising carbon dioxide levels

directly to the certain smoke

of Victorian England,

like these were the first warning signs.

Yeah, yeah.

And so it was England

that kicked off this transformation

that was in Europe,

and then came to North America?

Yeah, England kicked it off

in the late 1700s.

And so this was, you know,

in England,

it had, in this time,

1700s, late 1700s,

they had a really large labor force,

limited land,

because it's, you know,

it's a very small country,

and a very rigid class system.

And so we start seeing factories,

and they drew workers,

including women and children,

and to mills,

mostly textile mills,

and coal mines,

and disurban workshops,

and life really shifted.

Yeah, long hours, bad work conditions, no.

Bad work conditions.

Yeah, cramped housing,

little wages,

and there was this really sharp divide

between the industrial capitalist

and the newly formed urban working class,

like overnight, right?

Yeah, yeah.

And then also I would assume

the railroads and steamships,

like transportation,

really collapsed distance

between countries,

continents,

cities,

because then all of a sudden,

all countries were connected,

and when,

where that connected,

easily,

then it became global.

Yeah.

In fact, you started turning out food,

like flour, sugar,

canned goods,

like everything was made at scale,

everything was sold year round,

everything kind of tasted the same,

so it became the sort of standardization of taste,

and it was the birth of the modern,

industrial food economy.

Everything moved from the out of the home

and into the market.

And so we see these urban populations,

they become dependent on butchers,

and bakeries,

and you know,

street vendors,

and railroads and steam,

ships made it possible to ship meat,

and produce,

and also exotic goods,

like bananas,

and spices,

and sugar,

into these growing cities.

But I would assume that,

like this new system,

well,

it was unregulated at the time,

in the 1700s,

like there was no regulation,

which made it not only dangerous,

but like work conditions,

and workers,

and women,

and children,

like it was just so not,

you know,

nobody was overseeing this,

but it also reduced the quality of the food, you know,

milk was diluted with water,

flour was cut with chalk,

spoiled meat was like,

either chopped up and sold as something else,

or of course, you know,

they marketed spoiled meat as fresh,

so this obviously led to public outrage,

because this was unsustainable,

this kind of system

that was unregulated.

Totally, totally,

and this led governments

to pass the first food safety,

and also reform laws,

and this is,

an interesting one I think is one that happened

in the US, actually,

around this,

in the 1800s,

these women called the Lowell Girls,

that I didn't know about these women,

and they're not directly related to food,

but this idea of reform

and public outrage

and the public getting together,

these were mostly unmarried white women

who worked in the textile mills

in Lowell, Massachusetts,

in the 1800s,

and these were among the first women

in the US to earn wages outside of the home.

Right.

They were recruited from New England,

farming families,

and they lived in these boarding houses,

they worked 14-hour days,

six days a week,

under very strict rules,

like they had a strict curfew,

they were obligated to go to church,

and these mill owners were promoting,

you know,

education and independence,

it was like grueling work,

and they organized,

these women organized strikes

and reform groups,

and they helped launch early labor activism,

and shaped debates about women's work,

rights and industrial life in America.

They formed the female labor reform association

when the first women led organizations in the US.

Right.

Well, and I would assume,

there's so many parallels to immigrant labor.

Right.

Obviously, so,

because in 1850,

this was what?

This was 1800s,

so these were like white women.

These were white women.

Yeah, they were white.

Yeah.

And then in the 1850,

they was kind of replaced with the Irish women,

who were paid less,

and the Irish who were at the bottom of the wrong

during this time.

But it really,

I think this moment really laid the groundwork

for the regulations that we have today,

the definition of unions,

that the labor struggles really didn't end.

This is where it started.

This is where it started.

Exactly.

This is where it started.

And this is also around this time,

the 1800s is when industrial civilization spread to the US.

So it started in England,

and it spread to the US.

I would imagine it were,

of course, it spread to the US,

because we had far more land.

Yes.

I mean, because we had 1800s,

it wasn't that many people,

but we had a lot of land and fewer people

than the concentration in England.

Totally.

And because of this,

it unfolded much more unevenly in the US.

Oh, really?

I thought we would be better at it.

No.

We saw it.

We always saw it.

We had more land,

a lot less people.

So in England,

industrial labor,

often was like a lifelong reality.

Like you worked at a factory,

and this is what you were going to do

for the rest of your life.

In the US,

it was different.

A lot of people saw this factory work as temporary.

It's something to do before moving west,

before moving,

buying land,

this idea of upward mobility.

Sometimes it was real.

Sometimes it was a myth.

But this is how Americans understood labor.

And so then when immigration increased

in the late 19th and early 20th centuries,

factory work in the US became more permanent,

and working conditions mirrored those of Europe.

But it was different, right?

And also in the US,

much of the industrial economy was built

on enslaved labor.

So everything was just slightly different

than it was in England.

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I do think because the US is so known for agriculture.

I mean, this is the beginning

because we have a plan

so that kind of mechanization

of agriculture,

meat packing plan

that may be from pork and canned meat.

You know,

they made that widely available.

And industrial diaries

allowed milk and cheese

to travel far

so that transformed breakfast again.

Like in a serial episode,

transforming breakfast

tables in particular,

especially, you know,

with pork and bacon

and, you know,

pork chops

and all that fun stuff.

And then transportation

made a difference too.

Made coffee

and tea

and the tropical foods

part of everyday diet.

So I love how, like,

in industrial

advancements

really affected how we ate.

And what about convenience foods?

You know, bread

and cookies

and just turned into these daily treats

as opposed to, like, on Saturday,

we'll go to the bakery.

This just,

you could have it in your house.

Yeah.

Yeah, yeah, yeah.

Totally.

And we start seeing, you know,

additives.

All of this,

it's sort of the beginning

of this,

of this health crisis as well.

So everything became more convenient.

And, you know,

one of my,

one of my favorite things

is the greatest thing

from sliced bread.

I say that all the time.

I'm like,

I love that.

That's the greatest thing

since sliced bread.

So that was, like,

popularize the 1950s

when they actually started

to slice the bread.

And then you could just

take sliced bread home.

Yeah.

I was like,

yeah.

Well, in 1920,

in the 1920s,

is when we start seeing sliced

bread,

but that slow

again was popularized

in the 50s.

Wow.

Yeah.

Industrial food

made eating cheaper

and more convenient.

But it also made production

invisible.

And so, you know,

like just behind closed doors,

but you'd get this beautiful

bread that was sliced

and packaged perfectly.

But you don't know

really what happened

behind the scenes of,

of that journey.

So protest started to happen

when people realized

there,

there,

there was unsafe food.

When people realized

that unsafe food was

a symptom

of unsafe labor.

And so this fight for workers

rights and fight

for food.

And so this fight for workers

rights and fight for food

safety grew

out of that same beer

that an industrial system

that moves too fast

or too cheaply affects

people

and food.

Right.

And this is interesting

up to enclair.

Remember this book,

The Jungle?

Yes.

It was published in 1906.

He was the first one

to expose this,

the Chicago meat packing

industry.

There were rats

in New York.

I thought a lot.

There were rats in New York.

I didn't know anything

about the�i

and like diseased animals

were processed anyway.

Like workers

were falling into rendered

Vazig

disgusting.

And so he spent weeks

uncovering these practices

at the stockyards

and slaughterhouses.

And he wanted to

really focus on the people

and the treatment

of the people,

the workers.

But the readers were

outraged

by the food quality.

And so he was like,

the stomach. But this is when the public demanded reform. And

President Roosevelt in 1960 signed these two landmark laws, the

meat inspection act and the food drug, the pure food and drug

act, which eventually would become the FDA because of this,

because of this public outrage. Yeah. But you know, the law

didn't big labor overnight. Because you know, if you target

the consumer, which is by default, that's what the jungle

exposed was just like, oh, this oral meat. Wait, am I

eating it? Am I buying that? You know, but we didn't fix

the labor. Right. And so we haven't fixed the labor. We

haven't fixed the labor. But I always say this because I'm

obviously a big advocate for farm workers is like how

things get to your plate need to matter to you. Because what

happens to workers and what ends up on your plate are in

that verbal. And so I think the people producing cheap food

the people who are doing this labor are underfed, injured,

and they're very disposable. You know, I remember I remember

I did a documentary on the tomato farmers in Florida. And

they would have to they would get 50 cents of bucket. So they

would pick all the tomatoes so fast and they would turn a

bucket in, pick turn a bucket in turn a bucket in just to

make 50 cents of bucket. I mean, I mean, I mean, these

buckets full of tomatoes. And we followed this one woman

tomato picker and she went to the grocery store and she

put in a for the tomato that she picked to such a crime.

Nick crazy. It's a crime. We'll link to that document. And

that was a really great document. Yeah, it's called food

chains. Yeah, the oppression of labor. So how did the

industrial revolution differ in Latin America though?

Because I feel living in Mexico and I live between Mexico and

Spain, but living in Mexico, we still go to the the

carinceria. We still go to the fun of that. Yeah, we still

like we still do that. Obviously, there's industry and

factories and manufacturing. Obviously, because you know,

Latin America has cheaper labor. Right. But like how did it

unfold in Latin America? Yeah, it was really quite

different. So in England and the US, the industrial

revolution centered on factories and manufacturing and

growing these domestic markets. But in Latin America,

it was kind of folded very unevenly and largely from foreign

capital and interest. Right. So these. So this is, you know,

we're talking 1800s. A lot of Latin America are now

newly independent from their, you know, Spain or, you know,

Portugal. They became exporters of raw materials like sugar or coffee

or silver. And importers have finished goods rather than

as major industrial producers. And so railroads and ports were

built to facilitate export of these commodities to foreign

markets, but really often times without connecting to local

economies. So the labor systems were super unequal and they

relied on indigenous and afro descendant rural workers. And

they worked in this really horrible conditions, you know,

exploitative conditions. And rather than breaking from these

colonial era hierarchies, industrialization in Latin America

kind of enforced it and created deeper economic divides.

And this eventually fueled political movements. That linked labor rights and

to struggles over land and national control. And this was a driving force

behind the Mexican revolution. So we talked about that, you know,

with the foreign investors and the railroads and all of this. So it

was really, really quite different in Latin America than it was in the

US and England and Europe. Speaking of like mechanization

and preservation of food, you know, we did a canning episode.

Can I? I love canning. Let me show you. But canning is a

bright product of the industrial revolution, right? Yeah, yeah, yeah,

yeah, it totally is. It totally is. And we did a whole episode on it.

And it was developed out of this contest in France. And it was like this whole,

it's like a whole thing. But of all of the foods you could find in a can,

we have to talk about tuna for tuna to sardines. Let's talk about this.

There's a long, long history that stretches back to

sitting down store of revolution when we talk about all the trendy fish

tinned fish today, which I'm on the trend, by the way. I'm still on the trend.

I love it. In the fish, you know, my favorite fish. Why?

But you know, there's a tinned fish store here in LA. We've got to go to

it is inch one. I don't know. I don't know. I tagged it. I mean,

I saw it on Instagram. And so I saved it. And I was like, I got to tell my

thick. And it has everything. And there's a tinned fish,

a sommelier, basically. No. Yeah. She's like, this is a little more briny.

And this one's a little more less, you know, less ocean.

And it's a whole thing. And you can go do tasting there.

You have to go. That's my dream. Like, oh my god, I love it.

Sometimes going to a restaurant like a Spanish restaurant. And they'll open up

the tinned like they'll serve the tinned just like they'll just open it off with

bread. And oh my gosh, I have tinned fish at least once a week at home.

Oh, sorry, at least, but it has to be a good quality.

Yes, it has to be a good quality. And I will say, you know,

if we talk about tinned fish at the start of the 20th century,

tuna was barely eaten in the US. Like, that's crazy.

In 1900, we weren't really eating tuna, much less canned tuna.

Oh my gosh, yeah. Even though tuna had a long global history,

it's been eaten for centuries in the Mediterranean and Latin America.

And of course, Asia. And it's abundant off North America,

off the shores of North America. But we didn't even consume it.

Mexico thumb vocal, let me tell you, because there's a very popular restaurant,

Guldramar,

art friend Gabi, and who will you call it?

She's one of the popularized tortillas.

Oh, really? And this was like, by the way, 20 years ago.

Like they didn't even have it in Mexico City.

They weren't really a fish kind of city, because they felt like they were landlocked,

right? I would tune up the year. And she's like, we have the best fish in Mexico.

Oh my gosh.

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It was rarely consumed in the US.

And so California changed it, right?

California 1898 tuna fishing took off around Catalina.

Catalina around Catalina right here in our backyards.

And around the same time can tuna from France

in Italy began arriving in small quantities in the US.

So people were like, what is this?

But the American tuna industry begins around,

you know, in the 1880s, this man named Albert Halfel

established the first US tuna cannery in LA.

And in 1908, he began canning albacortuna.

And this part rapid growth across the country.

And so then marketing tuna became mainstream.

Their company is like, wait a minute.

Is this where chicken of the sea come from?

Yes, yes.

This van cam seafood.

They were operating under brands like chicken of the sea.

People thought it was chicken.

Well, it helped people embrace this.

It says like, okay, this is familiar.

This is mild.

This is familiar.

I know what chicken is.

And it became popular.

And by 19, there were like 36 tuna canneries

lining the West Coast.

Doesn't this make a problem?

Because then then you over fish like it becomes so popular.

And then you end up,

Albuquerque ended up, Albuquerque tuna specifically,

basically disappeared from California waters.

Yes.

And it all collapsed the whole industry.

Just as it was becoming a staple, a national staple,

oops, the industry collapsed.

Oh my god.

How did the how did the industry adapt?

Well, they shifted to yellow fan, which has darker meat.

But Americans were used to white Albuquerque.

So though they were only using the lighter fish

than it drove waste and like further fishing pressure.

And then yellow fan stocks were soon over fish.

And so boats had to go deeper into the Pacific

or like further south.

And it just became, you know,

it just becomes a bigger problem.

Yeah.

Well, then then the yellow stock was over fish.

Yes.

It's just like this, this like what is it?

Like a cycle, the cycle, but also like this,

just yeah, the cycle of like,

we just keep moving on to the next thing

and exploiting it and creating a problem.

And then we go, okay, done with that.

Yeah.

But then the like, we love things to death.

Oh, sorry, yeah.

We love to death literally.

And then the Great Depression came,

which really sealed tuna's place

because tuna was cheap and shelf stable, high in protein.

So then, you know, during the 1930s,

tuna became the most consumed fish in the US.

And that's where we get these recipes

that were really practical and easy and healthy.

Tuna salad, tuna sandwiches, tuna, noodle casserole.

When I was in college, I had cans of tuna and ramen.

That's the bag of ramen.

I grew by $10 per dollar.

And I would have so many cans of tuna

and I would mix my ramen noodles

with ramen noodles once or healthy.

But the tuna and I was like, I'm good.

I got my meals for the week.

Oh my gosh.

Yeah, I survived don't tuna when I was in college.

I still love tuna, love tuna, love it.

Now I get a bougie bitch with my tinned fish.

Yeah, I get the fancy cans tuna

because I make a mean tuna salad sandwich.

But then I'm going to make that today.

Oh, you got to make it a celery,

get full of celery, and then get a little

djajjane, red onion,

lobejane, little dill,

yes, and anyway,

but health concerns emerged

because tuna was considered a health food

but industrial pollution

introduced mercury

into our rivers and oceans.

And so let's talk about this mercury

because I feel like a lot of people

don't eat so much fish, especially tuna

because you're going to get mercury poisoning.

Tuna fishing can be very damaging to the environment,

especially when you do it on an industrial scale, right?

Yeah, yeah, totally.

Overfishing is push species like blue fin

and big eye tuna towards collapse, right?

And also with these large fishing nets

and these fish aggregating devices,

they killed dolphins and sharks and turtles

and also a little tiny fish as bycatch.

And tuna takes a really long time

to grow into adulthood as well.

So as local stocks decline,

boats travel further,

increase in fuel, carbon emissions.

Yeah, that's what I'm going to say

in the pollution adds this whole

whole other layer of risks

because then the tuna

accumulates the toxins like mercury

from this contaminated food chain.

So I think the sustainable alternatives

like pool and line fishing

or well-managed hip jack fisheries,

all of that exists,

but still most of the grown global tuna supply

rely on practices,

unfortunately, that still strain our oceans

and ecosystem.

And though by that late 1980s,

there was only one tuna cannery

in the continental United States.

Most of them were processed in Puerto Rico,

American Samoa,

Corsair Labor Custard Cheaper.

And so most tuna now is important.

60% of the tuna consumed in the U.S.

comes from abroad.

It really shifted.

Totally shifted.

That's fascinating.

So I'm not a chicken at the sea consumer.

But I know Tintfish has gone gourmet

and I'm a consumer of gourmet Tintfish.

For sure.

For sure.

For sure, the Spanish, the Portuguese,

the Spanish, from Galicia,

you have most canned,

the muscles from Galicia.

But you're living life.

So good.

And you know what I love about them too,

other than the beauty, the packaging.

Yeah, the aesthetic.

The aesthetics are so gorgeous.

And I do like that small fish

are having their moment right now,

the startings and anchovies.

Because those, by the way, are super sustainable.

Yes, exactly.

They don't require cooking.

And I just love that this is like modern eating.

Yes, even though the idea of preservation is rooted

in the Industrial Revolution,

it's now been reimagined with this, you know,

regional storytelling,

chef-driven brand.

Like you said, the packaging.

And it's affordable.

And global.

Mm-hmm.

And so shall, it's kind of casual.

You open it at the table.

You pair it with bread.

It got some wine.

It's just like this old and new at once.

It's like, yeah, it's very practical,

but it's artisanal.

And it's just, I love it.

I love it.

We talked about the origins of Kenny last season.

So check out last season's Canal.

You can episode, which was a really fun one.

If you guys have any tuna fish,

tuna fish recipe.

Let us know.

Don't forget to read us and leave us your messages.

Thank you for listening, everyone.

Thanks for listening.

Bye.

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