The Long Road To Bendigo (Episode 25)

Good day. I'm Peter. And good day. I'm Greg. Welcome to today's stories from our past,

a podcast about A History of Australia from about 1800 onwards. So, in the last episode,

it's October 1852, and our Hardy Trekkers are on their way to the Goldfields. They had

just crossed the River Murray. Okay, so they've crossed the Murray, and now they're in the colony

of Victoria, a colony which is infected with golf even. What faces them now? They've been on the

road for nine weeks so far. So how much longer is it a little take for them to get down to Bendigo?

Well, if you're hopped in a car in Mildura today, you'd shoot down the cold highway and be in Bendigo

in about four and a half hours. But you wouldn't be surprised to know that it took our Trekkers a

little longer than that. In fact, it took them almost another month to get there.

Yeah, well, that doesn't surprise me. Now, I need to say something about the ownership

for one of a better term of the land that they're now traveling through. As with the colony of

New South Wales and very much unlike South Australia where they came from, the land around them

had been grabbed in a wild land rush by the squatters. Our party passed from one station to another,

each claimed by one ambitious squatter after another. The Victorian colonial government had little

control over the squatters, and we're always playing catch-up. Eventually, a system was developed

where squatters runs were registered, with the government and some fees were paid. However,

government surveys were not yet able to exactly define the boundaries of each run. So all the

government could do was to record the extents of each run with descriptions like running from

this bend in the river to this old tree stump to the boundary of the next run. Often, the registration

and publication of squatters runs lagged behind the buying and selling of those runs.

So a claim for a run might be lodged in 1851. The government gets around a gazetting

that claim in 1852 only to subsequently find out that has already changed hands or changed boundaries.

Okay, well, that sounds like what happened in New South Wales and Queensland, but what's

that got to do with our store in? Well, during the next month, our group goes from one squatters

run to another, and they mention the names of the owners of each run. I thought that I could check

the veracity of the diaries against government records, but in the end, I had to take on good faith

what the diary says and sometimes disregard the government records. Furthermore, the track that they

follow goes from one squatters run to another. And generally, these tracks me and are along

close to the river Murray. Hence, they bear little resemblance to modern day roads.

Yes, that must be difficult to know their exact route. Well, luckily, no. It in fact is possible

to see exactly where they went. In 1951, the Victorian government surveyors surveyed the southern

bank of the Murray, being the boundary between the colonies of New South Wales and Victoria.

One map goes from Wentworth to Swan Hill. This map shows the home states and outstations

of the squatter runs at the time, and the tracks that connected them. This must be the route that

our party followed, so we can track them exactly. From now on, I'll refer to this map simply as

the 1851 map. Oh, well, that's convenient. So what's next? Well, it's James Adon who's turned to tell

us how they went after the Murray crossing. He wrote Friday, the 8th of October,

started at 8 o'clock and went about 16 miles through Scrub and camped near a Billy Bung.

Given the distance that they've travelled, they would have been near the modern day town of Red Cliffs,

which was a soldier settlement area after World War I, and is renowned for its vineyards.

A feature of the town is big lizzy, a giant tractor designed to knock down Mally Scrub.

Okay, where to from there? Bill Emmett can tell us about the next few days.

Saturday, 9th October.

Started about half past 8 and travelled about 18 miles through a thick scrub where we found we had

only a single drake track to guide us and went through Bush Country. Camped near a sheep station

belonging to Mr McGee. Sunday, 10th of October. This day, we usually camped, but our provisions

running short, having camped so many days, we decided on travelling on and started about 9 o'clock.

When about 4 miles on the road, the Bullock Drays came to a dirty muddy creek and William Henry

Neal took another road to get around the head of this dirty creek. He followed the single drake

track with horse carts and arrived at another swamp about 9 miles beyond where the Bullock Drays

camped. Monday, 11th October. Traveled about 1 mile, Bill Emmett sent Abe in search of us thinking

we had lost the road. He could scarcely be persuaded we were before them on the road.

We camped that day and the Bullock Drays came up to us in the evening, having travelled through

sand, 8 miles, which took them all day. Harry Neal came up to us from the diggings.

Well, for a change, they're making good progress following an unformed Bullock track through the

Malley Scrub. They've done about 75 kilometres or 44 miles since crossing the Murray.

Yeah, and in Bill Emmett's diary, he notes that Harry Neal, that swim Henry Neal's older son,

who had remained in Bendigo with Ned Emmett, had come up from the goalfields to join the group.

I'm not at all sure how he could have found them, but I suppose he simply rode along the

only track and kept asking people he met along that track if they'd seen the trickers from the

borough. Yeah, well, that sounds possible. Okay. Alrighty, so Bill Emmett continues the story.

Tuesday, 12th October. Started early and travelled 13 miles through a thick scrub and sand hills,

lost our team or pony, Jackie. Okay, and given all the trouble I've had with the team or pony,

they're probably aren't too worried about losing it. Well, when they say they lost the team or

pony, who now has a name, Jackie, they mean that Jackie wandered off into the scrub somewhere,

not that Jackie died. Because at the end of the track, they sell Jackie in certain time,

just before they reach the goalfields. Bill then continues his story.

Wednesday, 13th October.

Started about 8 o'clock and travelled through very heavy sand hills and went about 10 miles,

some parts through fire on each side of the road. Thursday, 14th October.

Started about 8 o'clock and about 11 o'clock passed a beautiful lake, one of the Montel

on pool lakes. A station belonging to Messes Keen and Boss and travelled about 16 miles and

camped. A few comments about this section. They are trekking through, what is now,

they had our Colcine National Park. This National Park covers 48,000 hectares or 120,000 acres

and is bounded on the East Brother Murray River. The had our lakes National Park was first

proclaimed on 7 June 1960 and was greatly expanded in 1980 and renamed the had a Colcine National Park.

It was originally claimed by squatters in the 1840s, but in 1915, a sanctuary was formed to

protect the beauty of the had our lakes. In the diaries, they referred to the Montel

or Hunpool lakes. The spelling of these lakes varies enormously in all documents.

It appears that the first squatters to claim a run there were or a nule, who called the run,

Mournpool. The adding 57 list of holders of stock in the Wimbledon District notes that

or a nule had three runs, Mournpool and two others carrying a 10,300 and 90 sheep.

The diaries say that the run was owned by Keen and Boss, but the only reference I can find to

these people may be PJ Keen, who had a run called Murable and this was transferred to another

squatter in 1851. For our story, a close examination of the 1851 map shows the homestead of

Keen and Orr on the lake side of Lake Mournpool. This must have been the route that our group took.

Today, the National Park Service has finally settled on the name of the lake as Lake Mourn Parle.

Bill Emmett then continues. Friday 15th October

It started about 8. A very cool, pleasant day saw the Murray twice and travelled 20 miles

and camp beside a Billy Bong nearly opposite the station. Saturday 16th October

It started half past 8 and passed Grant's sheep station and camped in the scrub.

Unusually scrubby and porcupine grass scattered about, travelled about. Sunday 17th October

camped all day. Mr Mayer, hey, camped with us. When they say they saw the Murray twice,

they must have been near the current locality known as Women, which is where the high

bank of the Murray runs close to the track. The 1851 map shows women as an outstation of Grant

squad around. When they refer to porcupine grass, they must certainly must mean spin effects,

which is quite common in the area. Well, it seemed to be making good progress and they're not

complaining about the constant rains, so that must have made them happier. Do you know

anything about the stations that Bill mentioned? Yeah, let's start with John Grant's sheep station,

which was called Bumbane. According to government records, it had an estimated area of 19,200 acres

with an estimated carrying capacity of 200 head of cattle or 4000 sheep. The registered

description of the extensive Bumbane were. Bounded on the north by the Murray River,

on the east by Mr McCallum, on south by the Malley Scrub, on west by Mr Crawford, which is 15

miles to the Murray River, from where it joins Mr McCallum's run on the east until it joins Mr

Crawford's on the west. Well, with that inaccurate description of the bounds of the run, how can

they possibly say they had a carrying capacity of 4000 sheep? Who knows. I guess that it was a

bureaucrat's requirement to come up with a number. Anyhow, some history of Bumbane. This was the

traditional land for the Lati Lati and Dati Dati people, and Bumbane Island remains a significant

site for them. In 1847, John and Mary Grant, their three teenage sons and a daughter, occupied the

run, were 15 miles frontage on the southern side of the Murray River. Applying for a partial

lease in 1849, John Grant asked for 20 square miles of land. Although the First Nations people

call the area Bumbane, the name of the run on the 1851 map is Talital. At this location,

the grants built a pine log home state and outbuildings, and established an orchard and a garden.

In 1852, they were able to supply fresh fruit to the first paddle steamers on the Murray.

The original Bumbane homestead burned down in 1926. John Grant's partial lease extended from

where Robinville stands today, southward for several miles, and bounded the Murray River to the north

east and west. In 1851, Bumbane was transferred from Donald J. McLeod to James Hamilton.

Is there a partial property there now? No. The township of Robinville is there now.

The town was established in 1924 by Herbert Cuddle, who named it Robinville in honor of his son,

George Robin Cuddle, who was killed in France in 1918. The surrounding land is a post-World War

one soldier settlement irrigation development, which was expanded after World War II.

Robinville has a very impressive insect memorial park. I assume that the Mr. Mayor they refer to

is simply just another travel on the track. Yeah, I guess so. They don't give any details.

Anyhow, Bill Emmett continues his story. Monday, the 18th of October,

started and travelled through scrub and sand hills and came to Mr. McLeodman's McCubbin station on

the river, travelled about 15 miles, Tuesday, 19th October, scrub and sand hills and

camped in a swamp, travelled about 12 miles, Wednesday, 20th October, started about 8 o'clock

and travelled through a miserable country, sand hills and porcupine grass and malle scrub.

12 miles and camped on a plain near Hamilton's. Lost a beautiful kangaroo dog and sheep dog.

The owner had been offered 20 pounds. These dogs were poisoned, poison having been laid by the station owner.

When Bill says the owner of the next station was McCubbins, I'm fairly sure he's referring to either

McCullum or McCleod, who had stations along this stretch. Okay, so we have the McLeodans,

the McCubbins, McCullum and McCleod all mentioned this locality. It seems to be a mini Scottish colony

here thereabouts. Yeah, certainly does. Youngura Homestead, which is now a homestay on the banks of

the Murray, was McCullum's head station. The original homestead was built in 1852. In 1846,

Alan Xander McCullum took up Youngura squatting run of approximately 57,600 acres of land

on the Murray River, which could hold approximately 1,500 cattle or 10,000 sheep. The land encompassed

Murray River frontage between the land east of Robinvale and Boundary Bend, with its southern

border stretching between the present day location of Banneton in the west and Youngura,

or West Naurong, in Eust. He and his family lived at Youngura station. Unfortunately,

his wife died at the station at the age of 30. McCullum held the license until 1870. Youngura

station, along with the surrounding Bumbang and Mount Miles stations, were offered for Salon

1870, but none of them were sold. By 1876, both Youngura and Bumbang stations were owned by a Henry

Miller. So now they should be getting close to Swan Hill, shouldn't they? Yeah. Bill Emmett

continues their story. Thursday 21st October moved on about eight o'clock and traveled to

Coghills about 12 miles and camped. Friday 22nd October. Again, got away about eight o'clock and

went through a very pretty country, about 13 miles, and camped on a beautiful flat near beverage

station. Saturday 23rd October started about nine o'clock. The first passed a miserable country

but improving as we came near Swan Hill opposite which we camped. Now, a quick word about Peter

Beverage. Peter Beverage was born in 1829 in Dunfordland, five Scotland. Here Iden Port,

Philip, in 1839. Beverage established Catalan sheep stations along the Murray, where he stayed

there from 1845 until 1868. He established Tintinda station, 10 miles down the Murray from the

side of Swan Hill, and in 1845, with his older brother Andrew, they took up Piagul station,

about 15 miles beyond Tintinda in 1846. Piagul is about opposite Tullibuck in New South Wales.

He stayed on those stations until 1868. He wrote many articles on the customs, dialects and myths

of the aboriginal of the Murray, Murrumbidgey, and Darling areas. He presented a paper on aboriginal

ovens to the London Anthropological Society in 1869, and he wrote the aboriginal needs of Victoria

and Riverina as seen by Peter Beverage in 1889. He sounds like an interesting character.

Yeah, he sure does. It's James Adona, who's turned to tell us what happened next.

Sunday, 24th October, camped all day, Monday, 25th October. Started at 8 o'clock,

passed several lakes and arrived a mile beyond Lake's Boga and Moia, about five o'clock,

a distance of 15 miles across the Evorca and camped. Lake Boga is a small town and large lake,

about 17 kilometers, that's 11 miles, southeast of Swan Hill. Today, it has some impressive

silo art, but at the time our trek was passed, there was a different settlement there. Two German

Moravian missionaries established Lake Boga mission in 1851. The mission closed in 1856,

due to lack of converts, disputes with local authorities, and hostilities with local

landholders. It doesn't sound like the Moravian missionaries rule that's successful and we're

two from Lake Boga. Our billiimate can tell us.

M. Tuesday, 26th October, made off about nine over two or three miles of water and several deep

creeks. The men said this was not going overland, it was going over water, got bogged and after

covering about 10 miles, camped on a large plains on Lake Kangaroo. Kangaroo Lake, as it is known

today, is known for its abundance of yellowbelly and redfin fish and is the prime spot in the local

area for fishing enthusiasts. Bill Emmett continues. 27th October, got away about the usual time and

passed over a very pretty country and crossed the Lodden, camped about two miles past the crossing

place. Thursday, 28th October, started about half past nine, traveled over an immense plane called

the 25 mile plane 10 miles. Saw amount hope in the distance, which looked like an umbrella held

up in a very small cloud. Also, a hill rising out of the plane called the Sugar Loaf, as Bill Emmett

was on top of it, had a splendid view all around. Bill Emmett camped about five miles before the

plane terminated. It started to rain and continued for some time.

They must have been really sick and tired of the rain. I wonder how many fine days they had

in the whole journey. I should try to work that out at some stage. I wouldn't have had much

sunshine, that's for sure. Now, Bill Emmett is correct when he describes this section as the 25

mile plane. It is dead flat, but often the distance is mount hope, which is quite scenic close up.

When Bill refers to the Sugar Loaf, I'm sure he's referring to Pyramid Hill.

Okay, the mess have had a bit of spare time for Bill Emmett to find time to climb to the top to

enjoy the view. Yeah, by Bill's description, they must have camped somewhere north of the modern

day settlement known as Durham Ox, which is adjacent to the serpentine creek. Durham Ox is named

after a bull, so famous that it has its own wiki page. Well, you mentioned in the previous

episode that another part had left South Australia for the Gough Hills and were following the same route

except they crossed the Murray at Robinville rather than Golgold. Do they record their trek along

the southern side of the Murray? Yep, they sure do. Here is their description of their journey along

the Murray. We traveled up the Murray. All along the Murray here is low-stunted box and a mass of

small creeks and billabongs. The water from the river through them makes the roads in a frightful

state. Up to your knees half the day in water. After passing through this kind of country for about

a week, we came on high red banks. There's large swamp here on the river. The Mallee comes on to

the top of those red banks. We passed by Beverage's station on the banks of the Murray.

The cattle on this station are very wild. All the backcountry is one mass of Mallee scrub.

From Beverage's to Swan Hill is about the same class of country. We had to keep four miles out

from Swan Hill to get around Lake Boge Bogey. This is a beautiful little lake. High banks all

around it. The lake appears to be very deep. The owner of this lake cut a trench through the bank

so when there would be high floods in the Murray, the water would flow through the Mallee. We leave

the Murray here. From Lake Bogey we passed Reedy Lake. From here we come on to find open country.

From Reedy Lake we came to the Lodden River Crossing Place. There's a bridge across the Lodden

and the public house on the opposite side. The river was flooded when we crossed. Two feet of water

running over the bridge and 100 yards on each side of the bridge.

We got across all safe. Fine plains on this side. Well that sounds exactly like the same

road as that trickers have taken. Just explained it with a little less detail and I've also

been hampered by it with them. Yep. James I don't know who continues their story. Friday 29th of October

threatened rain determined to remain here and towards afternoon terrific thunderstorm.

Saturday 30th of October. Bullock Drey started early. We did not overtake them till about 12 o'clock

when they stopped at Booth and our Giles public house. Bill Emmett sold a team of Bullock's

and Drey for chunky. Price 100 pounds and Mr. Harvey sold Jackie and Charlie a Drey and Bullock's.

Traveled a few miles and camped on the serpentine river.

So what do you know about the Booth and our Giles public house? Well firstly Booth and our

Giles themselves. Abraham Booth arrived in Melbourne on 13 December 1840 with a friend from his

local area in Darbyshire. Abraham Booth was 25 years old and his companion Edward Aguil was 23.

Their occupation, like the majority of other single men on the ship, was recorded as a laborer.

But it's reasonable to assume that both men had experience as farm workers. They were from

villages two miles apart in southeast Darbyshire. In the next decade the partnership of Booth and

our Giles built up a diversified business. Seizing opportunities in Melbourne and taking up

squadron releases in the countryside. In this time they achieved the emigrant stream of accumulating

wealth and possessing land. During a period of economic depression which saw the failure

of many colonial benches. Booth and our Giles were successful in a Melbourne butchery business

which they used as a springboard to move into pastoralism. They managed their June route and

a prizes from Melbourne until 1849 when they went to live up on the squatting lease at Duck Swamp

on the Lodden River in the north of the Port Philanthistic. The Duck Swamp run was 115,000 acres

between 1848 and 1853. Abraham Booth and Edward Aguil also held another large lease

scene agnus. It sounds like they were successful entrepreneurs. Sure were.

So Booth and Aguil's pub was also called the Durham Ox Inn. It was a stopping place for

bullock trays and horsecoaches on the road between Bendigo and Swan Hill. It's not surprising

that they stopped there because it gave them an opportunity to sell some of their livestock

which had always been part of their plan. Okay so where to next?

James Adonuhu can tell us. Sunday 31st October. Very anxious to arrive at our journey's end,

determined to travel and went on as far as the serpentine public house where Dr. Lloyd Sold Oscar,

horse and James Adonuhu sold Lucy. Camped about a mile beyond. So our trickers are

selling more livestock. Hopefully they got a good price for them. That's hope so. Bill Emmett

next rights. Monday, November 1st. Started about 9 o'clock and arrived at Bullock Creek

about 22 miles where we camped. Tuesday, November 2nd. Quite delighted to find this would be the

last day we should have to camp before we reached Bendigo. We arrived at Myers flat about 2 o'clock

and camped about 14 miles. William Henry Neal always styled the governor. Bill Emmett and wife

also Harry Neal started in the light cut for Bendigo to see Edward Emmett. Henry was driving

and unfortunately attempted a cross between two trees and caught the cart breaking the springs

and were obliged to return. Henry Neal and Bill Emmett went afterwards on horseback.

Wednesday, the 3rd of November started as soon as we could get ready and arrived at Bendigo

about 10 o'clock, completely tired of our long journey. All well. When they say they were going

to Bendigo to see Edward Emmett, they mean Edward Nutella Emmett, Pettinayna's Ned. We discussed

Ned Emmett in episode 19. So they've reached Bendigo in the Gulf Hills. How did they fare there?

Did anyone make it rich by falling a big nugget? Well, you'll just have to wait until the next

episode to see how they fare. So it's goodbye from me. And it's goodbye from me.