What the banana tells us about US history

0:00On Consider This, NPR's afternoon news podcast we cover everything from politics to the economy to the world, but every story starts with a question. On NPR, we stand for your right to be curious to make sense of the biggest story of the day and what it means for you. Follow Consider This, wherever you get your podcasts. This is America in Pursuit, a limited-run series from ThruLine and NPR. I'm Rhonda Dutfettac. Each week, we bring you stories about life, liberty, and the pursuit of happiness in the U.S. that began 250 years ago. Right now bananas are so ubiquitous in our lives that we can't imagine life without them. Yeah, you heard that right. Bananas. As in the sweet tropical fruit, that's become a mainstay of American breakfast. Okay, so the reason we're talking about bananas is because they help us understand a key part of American history.

1:01The Teddy Roads of Elira. When at the turn of the 20th century, this was a time when rugged men went out to make their name in the world. The idea of what constituted America and its sphere of influence started to expand far beyond its borders. It's the era of makismo, of doing things. The world belonged to them. It was theirs for the taking. So what's this got to do with bananas? Well, today on the show, we're going to tell you the story of how one American entrepreneur named Minor Keith helped bring the banana to the American diet by looking beyond the U.S.'s shores and becoming the uncrowned king of Central America. We'll bring you that story right after a quick break. Minor Keith had grown up in Brooklyn, New York. And he had become a cattle rancher in Texas. You know, it's a very common motif in America

2:01for sort of patrician or urban types to sort of become cowboys. This is writer Dan Cople. I sometimes pretentiously like to call myself a thing biographer. I write about the histories of objects and I'm best known for writing a book called Banana, The Fate of the Fruit that Chains the World. Dan says this shift towards aggressive entrepreneurship started around the time of the Civil War. When communication and transportation networks rapidly expanded, things say advances in mining and agriculture, which entice people to develop new lands. Railroads began moving people west and the world seemed ripe for the taking. They were gold rush people, basically. All these American business people were trying to find some form of gold. So any business that could make them a lot of money. Right, and Minor Keith, the city kid from a wealthy family, who had tried his hand at running a cattle ranch, at being a cowboy, was at heart a budding entrepreneur.

3:03He wanted to make it really big to be among the Carnegie's and Rockefellers of the world. And he thought railroads might be that business for him. In the United States, there's a railroad building boom, but it's controlled by moguls, by conglomerates, by people who are already rich. There's not a lot of room for entrepreneurship. There's not a lot of room for Brooklyn-born, Texas cattle rancher to sort of become a big wheel. So Keith decided to look beyond the US for opportunities. His uncle was working on railroads in Chile, Peru, and Costa Rica, and invited him to come there. At the time, there was very little infrastructure in Central America. These were villages with dirt roads. But people were determined to find a way to the Pacific through Central America, while Columbus had wanted to do. Why Central America? Because of the unimaginable or imagined, let's say,

4:03riches that might happen there. Things like coffee, minerals, maybe actual gold. And even though Keith knew pretty much nothing about Costa Rica, he figured, hell, why not? I can do this. This is my chance to make it big. Whatever challenges may come. But on the flip side, he probably thought, if I build this railroad, then I'll have access to all those riches. I think what Minor Keith understood was that if you build infrastructure in these places where there is no infrastructure, and you make the right financial deals by hook or by crook, honestly or dishonestly, you are going to get very rich, and you're going to get very, very powerful. If you're wondering why a government would open their arms to a fairly inexperienced foreign businessman, it's pretty simple. They needed the help. They wanted to find a way to export their coffee crops, the country's main export, to Europe.

5:05And to do that, they needed to tap into their eastern coast. And it was a jungle. Up until the 1870s, most of Costa Rica, east of the capital, San Jose, was completely undeveloped. Just miles and miles of nearly impenetrable rainforest. The Spanish had made few inroads there. They'd killed and resettled some indigenous communities, but they didn't actually manage to build much. Yeah, it's beautiful, but it's very rugged terrain. And every square inch is basically green. I mean, dense beyond belief. You look up, and it's just webs of winding branches and leaves. Keith wanted to build a railroad through all of that, stretching 100 miles from San Jose to Limón. It wasn't an easy task. We have to say that. This is Victor Acunia Ortega. He's a professor emeritus at the University of Costa Rica. He faced technological challenges, environmental challenges, and financial challenges.

6:06I mean, this was really, really crazy. In 1872, Keith began construction in Limón. At first, he recruited Costa Rica's population to build the railroad, which at the time was very small. But as the project got underway, many began to realize just how difficult and dangerous it was. They are tearing the jungle down with hand tools. The work conditions were very, very hard because the climate, because the tropical diseases. Trees would sometimes fall on them. It rained a lot of the time, so they were often working in mud. If they got any sort of cut or wound, it could easily become infected. And mosquitoes were everywhere, some carrying diseases. After a little while, Costa Ricans laid down their tools.

7:07They were like, we're not going to do this, because no job is worth dying for. Construction stalled, and Keith was back at square one. He had to find workers somewhere else. You know, luckily or unluckily, there's this huge immigrant population in the United States, and so Keith returns to the U.S. and hires a couple of thousand Italian immigrants. And he tempts them. You know, he says, we're going to pay a lot of money. And we're going to give you a lot of work. He also brought workers from China and parts of Europe. And once they get down there, and they hear what's happening, and they see what's happening, and they see how dangerous it is, they begin going AWOL. Hundreds died, then thousands. In part, because these men had never been to the tropics, so they weren't used to the climate, or its diseases. And the work was just really grueling. Among the workers who died on this project were Keith's two brothers.

8:09You know, so this was deadly, not just for the poor souls who were sort of suckered into coming and working on it, but the guys at the very top as well. Progress was slow, and money was tight. A few years into the project, they were 30 miles from their end goal, San Jose. But Keith remained determined. And desperate for workers. He decided to recruit prisoners. Hopeless prisoners, people in in Jalen, New Orleans, people who have no way out. And he basically calls for volunteers. And he says, anybody who volunteers helps me build my railroad to completion is going to get a pardon. 700 prisoners volunteer. But only 25 prisoners survive to get their pardons. 25 out of 700. People would die. Miner Keith would find more. They died.

9:10More came. He was relentless. Eventually, Miner Keith figured out that if he brought Jamaicans over from the Caribbean, they would have an easier time working on his railroad since they spoke English and were used to the climate. Thing is, by this point, Miner Keith had another problem. He'd burned through millions of dollars and was nearly out of money. And the Costa Rican government, which is sort of funding this thing partially, also goes broke. I mean, at this point, most people would just throw into town and go home. That's the logical thing to do, probably. But instead, Keith goes to England. And he borrows 1.2 million pounds. Which is, I think, about the equivalent of maybe $150-$200 million today. Then he goes back to Costa Rica and proposes a new deal to the government. This sort of crazy deal. He says, I'll build a railroad for free. In return, you give me 99 years. Concession along the route.

10:11I have 800,000 acres of land tax-free alongside the tracks. And I have full control of the Port of Lima. Not a great deal for the Costa Rican government. But they were in a pretty bad position at this point. And just needed to finish the railroad. Miner Keith, he was a very good entrepreneur. And he was too very able to negotiate. And he was able to put himself, come, somebody in the spent summer for the Costa Rican government, who was capable of finishing the railroad. So work on the railroad continued. And at this point, Keith had really managed to dig himself out of a hole, right? Absolutely. I mean, now he had the support of the country's elite, a workforce that could handle the climate, total control of the Port of Lima and 800,000 acres of tax-free land.

11:12And what he did with that land at first was he grew bananas. And he didn't grow them to make money. He grew them to feed his workers, the ones who weren't dying by the dozen or two dozen. As an American, Keith had little experience with bananas. They weren't really available in the U.S. since they only grow in tropical climates. But around this time, some people were beginning to experiment with ways to bring bananas. This rare tropical fruit to the United States. And after planting a few bananas trees alongside the railroad, minor Keith realized why. It's really easy to grow. You know, you get a few bananas trees and from those few, you can grow a farm and from those farms, you can create a plantation with rows after row of bananas trees. And from that plantation, you can create a nation of bananas trees. And that's when the light bulb went off.

12:12He had a lot of land at his disposal. And soon, he would have a railroad and a port all to himself. So minor Cooper Keith set his sights on another potentially much bigger business opportunity. Bananas. By the time the railroad was completed in 1890, minor Keith was officially in the banana business. A few years later, he would be the co-founder of the United Fruit Company, which would go on to grow beyond Costa Rica. And Keith would go on to have his hands in everything. He ran the postal service in Guatemala. He set up a telegraph communications network throughout Central America. Built rail lines between Mexico and Guatemala, Guatemala and El Salvador, connecting cities across the region. And he controlled ports all along the Caribbean coast of Central America. People in these countries gave United Fruit the nickname El Purpo,

13:15the octopus, and Keith. Sort of became known as the Uncrowned King of Central America. Keith was the king. Bananas were catching on in the continental United States, and business seemed good until it wasn't. That's it for this week's episode of America In Pursuit. Want to know what ended up happening to minor Keith and how the banana came to dominate American kitchens? Make sure to check out through line's full length episode. There will be bananas. And make sure to join us next week when we explore the origins of something that's been in the news recently and has been a hallmark of American identity for over 150 years. Birthright citizenship. He said, yes, I'm a laborer, I'm a chef, but I'm a citizen. And here's the proof he had his certificates. He knew that he was born in the United States, and that meant he was a US citizen.

14:19The story of Wong Kim Mark and the fight for birthright citizenship. That's next week. Don't miss it. This episode was produced by Kiana Moradam, and edited by Christina Kim with help from the through line production team. Music, as always, by Romptine and his band Drop Electric. Special thanks to Julie Kane, Irene Negucci, Beth Donovan, Casey Miner, and Lindsay McKenna. We're your host, Rhonda Abdelfattath, and Romptine Arablui. Thank you for listening.