58. How To Build Finger Strength

Let's talk building finger strength for beginner climbers. We're going to go over protocols and common practices so you can approach finger strength with longevity in mind. Do you believe finger strength is the most important thing to focus on? Because I don't. (Okay, it's in the top 3.) But hear me out: technique. Technique paired with consistency, intentionality, and curiosity will help build familiarity around hold positions, and you'll learn movement and strength. So have a listen to this week's episode and let's dive into finger training.

00:03:20 It's not just finger strength

00:04:15 What are your fingers doing

00:07:15 Hold proper hand positions with intention

00:08:34 Take this intentional approach to a training board

00:09:07 Time Under Tension

00:11:55 No Hang Protocol

00:22:25 Longevity in finger training

00:24:40 Other ways to improve grip strength and finger strength

00:26:15 Recovery example: rice bucket

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Emil's YouTube Videos: Original No Hang Video: https://youtu.be/sBTI9qiH4UE?si=NFjnIIodobQmmRHl

Follow-up: https://youtu.be/XXrDQ8PCAmI?si=Y6hC1sqQ7BFstv_U

Rice Bucket video: https://youtu.be/fpa_30upVTA

Research studies:

Intermediate and advanced protocols for hangboarding: López-Rivera E, González-Badillo JJ. Comparison of the Effects of Three Hangboard Strength and Endurance Training Programs on Grip Endurance in Sport Climbers. J Hum Kinet. 2019 Mar 27;66:183-195. doi: 10.2478/hukin-2018-0057. PMID: 30988852; PMCID: PMC6458579.

Original Keith Barr Study Emil used to create the no hangs protocol: Baar, K. (2017). Minimizing Injury and Maximizing Return to Play: Lessons from Engineered Ligaments. Sports Medicine (Auckland, N.z.), 47(Suppl 1), 5. https://doi.org/10.1007/s40279-017-0719-x

Follow-up study with Keith Baar and Emil Gilmore, N. K., Klimek, P., Abrahamsson, E., & Baar, K. (2024). Effects of Different Loading Programs on Finger Strength in Rock Climbers. Sports Medicine - Open, 10(1), 1-11. https://doi.org/10.1186/s40798-024-00793-7